When you travel to Puerto Rico and decide to stay in San Juan, the capital city, if you venture just 3 miles east from San Juan International Airport you’ll discover the beach village Piñones. Pinones serves perhaps the best local food in Puerto Rico and is rimmed by the Caribbean Sea that crashes across the reef then slowly rolls to shore.
Having arrived at Piñones, bike or walk along the boardwalk, inhale the smoky aroma from the eateries lining the oceanfront and streets.
Why this place appeals to me
Eight-foot waves driven westward by the trade winds rise skyward and crash over the coral reef that stretches outside the NE coast. Salt mist rides the trades ashore. Beachside coral and sand create 4 foot, flat calm, deep tidal pools; safe enough for small kids to splash. The water is always 82 degrees.
Wrap a cold Dominican-brewed Presidente beer in a thermal sleeve and settle into your private corner of a natural salt water pool; relax.
In 1830, at the age of fifteen Don Facundo Bacardí emigrated from Catalonia, Spain to colonial Santiago de Cuba. In 1862 Don Facundo established the Compañía Bacardi. The Bacardí family initially propped up Fidel and his Cuban revolutionaries. Bacardi supported the revolution publicly with advertisements and parties. But their endorsement turned to opposition as the pro-Soviet Che Guevara wing of the revolution movement began to dominate. Barcardi watched Castro turn against capitalism.
The Bacardí family and Company fled Cuba after Castro confiscated the Company’s Cuban assets in October 1960. All private property was nationalized, all bank accounts seized. However, Bacardi had started foreign branches prior to the revolution; the Bahamas hosted ownership of Bacardi trademarks, assets and proprietary formulas by 1960. Rum was being produced in Puerto Rico to avoid US import taxes.
Bacardi Rum survived Castro.
Your last Presidente beer is dry. Drag yourself out of the tidal pool and head for Soleil Beach Club, midway along Pinones boardwalk. Today’s feature on the terrace of Soleil is Bacardi Pina Coladas . . . and Ceviche.
How Far Down the Block?
OPTION #1 – From the beach at the Ritz Carleton, Isla Verde, the walking route leads east – past the Marriott Courtyard. The next mile takes you along the beach of Pine Grove, perhaps San Juan’s prettiest public beach park. Pine Grove Beach lies parallel to the runway at the International airport. Toes in the sea you stroll into the Caribbean Trade Winds – as you kick through the sea foam. A Jet Blue 737 aircraft lifts and banks North over Pinones.
After a mile and a half the beach ends and a sidewalk leads over a bridge and into Pinones. Take a hard left, another half-mile wandering East along Pinones’ boardwalk delivers you to Beach Club Soleil. [mappress mapid=”15″]
OPTION #2 – Bus 45 from Avenida Isla Verde travels along route 187 serving San Juan to Pinones, but the bus schedule is hard to time.
OPTION #3 – Rent a tandem bike at Hotel Villa del Sol, Calle Rosa #4, a small hotel located across the street from the Hampton Inn in Isla Verde; the sidewalk leads all the way to Pinones.
Why you might be nearby
The upscale resort hotels in Isla Verde include; the Ritz Carleton, InterContinental, El San Juan, Ritz Carleton, Marriott Courtyard, Hampton Inn.
If you have a 3 hour plus layover at San Juan’s Munez airport, the taxi ride to Pinones is 10 minutes during the week – a great alternative to the airport bar.
Lesser Known Facts
Piñones is located in the village of Loíza. In the 1600s, Loíza housed runaway slaves from the British colonies.
African influences along with local Taíno traditions contribute to the town’s unique style of cooking. As you bite into a crispy alcapurria (beach food made with green banana batter and stuffed with either meat, crab, shrimp or lobster), you may be serenaded by the sound of drums in the distance, an homage to the bomba y plena, an Afro-Puerto Rican style of music that originated in Loíza.
Bomba; the music, rhythm and dance carried by West African slaves to Puerto Rico. Sunday is Bomba (music day) at Pinones.
Local Recommendation
Today’s chalk board at Soleil Beach Club features Ceviche, Chorizo in anchovies, Langouste stuffed with rice & crab.
Pinones is not fancy; it’s the sights, the smells. Amazing Frituras (fritters) sold at colorful shacks, made with the indigenous cassava, yautia (a root vegetable), malanga (local sweet potato), and plantains. Frituras are stuffed with beef, chicken, pork or shellfish, served with hot sauce and washed down with an ice cold beer.
Donde Olga Restaurant has been whipping up fritters for more than 30 years. There you’ll find Angie Ponce, a cook who uses the a sea grape leaf to help her mold alcapurrias. It’s a technique she learned after many years of experience.
”At first I used to use plastic wrap but the leaf works much better,” Angie says as she drops fritters into hot oil fueled by wood fire.
Something for Nothing
COOL OFF; in the 4 foot deep tidal pool right in front of Soleil Beach Club.
STROLL: the wooden boardwalk promenade to Punto Maldonado turnaround.
TRANSPORTATION: A free ride! Soleil Beach Club advertises they will send a comfy, free shuttle to pick you up in San Juan.
