Category: New Zealand

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Nelson; THE SAILS, boutique hotel New Zealand

Nelson, New Zealand: The Sails; a boutique hotel

Nelson, New Zealand

The Sails; a boutique hotel

The Sails Nelson, NZ
Sunrise at The Sails


Why this place appeals to me:     The owner/operators Max and his wife Robyn are hands on; chatting as they fold towels inside the overhead door of The Sails laundry facility.  Max and Robyn live on-site.  The Sails is somewhat unknown as it opened new in Dec. 2012.  The Sails sparkles.

Each room has full kitchen amenities, superb coffee service, full glassware and silverware, a small deck and a glass and chrome bathroom. 65 channels are provided on an LCD TV.  Wi-Fi is complimentary.  Max enthusiastically acts as de facto concierge at The Sails; advising on events, dining and drinks.

The Sails is a bit of a splurge at NZ $160 for thrifty travelers, but worth the price.

The Sails Cocktail hour
Cocktail Hour at The Sails

How Far Down the Block?     Six blocks from the bus station on Bridge Street in the center of Nelson; your likely arrival point as there is no train service in/out of Nelson.  From the bus station it is a 100 meter, half-block walk to Trafalgar Street, lined with a choice of pubs and restaurants. Turn the corner north and walk five blocks to The Sails.

Why you might be nearby?     A) You fell into the gravitational pull of the Marlborough vineyards, B) You were cold and Nelson is reported to have consistently pleasant weather.

Two of New Zealand’s top offerings are featured in Nelson; cycling and brew pubs. And they compliment each other.  Confer with the locals in choosing a ride, make sure it passes by, then ends with a proper pub.  Paved bike trails run along the ocean, up the rivers leading into Nelson and into the low mountains surrounding Nelson.

From The Sails it is a quick, uncluttered ride to join the cycle trails.    [mappress mapid=”5″]

Lesser Known Facts:     Max worked for IBM, based in Connecticut, USA for fourteen years.  Max got his start in hospitality developing pubs and restaurants; selling when the establishments achieved success.  He bought the site for The Sails and oversaw construction of the hotel.

Local Recommendation:     The Saturday morning market in downtown Nelson.

If you turn the wrong way where Bridge Street meets Trafalgar after leaving the bus station, you quickly arrive at The Vic, Mac’s Brewpub on Trafalgar Square in Nelson. Stop for a beer.

When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown.  For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded.  The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement.  Max was awarded a cap for his exceptional facility and guest service.

Something for Nothing      The Sails provides two bikes on site for use by their guests.  Not the same quality as the cycle rental options nearby, yet perfect for a 90 minute exploration of Nelson.  The Sails offers laundry service for guests for $8.00 a load; an appreciated touch for frugal packers.

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Martinborough, restaurant COOL CHANGE New Zealand

Martinborough, NZ: COOL CHANGE; a restaurant & bar in wine country

Cool Change; a restaurant & bar in Martinborough, New Zealand, 30 minutes south from Highway 2, New Zealand’s Wine Trail

What appeals:  On Tuesday, a lot of eating and drinking places in Martinborough close.  It was Tuesday and Cool Change would be open that night … and they had a bar.  Too few upscale NZ eating establishments have a bar; drinks are served at the table.

Jimmy, Cool Change’s afternoon barkeep, touted the special to be served later Tuesday evening; the platter of roast lamb served with Martinborough veggies and NZ potatoes. Two migrants from Minnesota sipped late afternoon beer at Cool Change’s bar.  He said they hadn’t been back since they left seven years ago.  She said they didn’t plan to ever go back.

Tirohana Estate; a boutique vineyard less than a kilometer from Memorial Square in Martinborough, offered white linen, their own wines,  veggies from their garden and the promise of top-notch service.  Tirohana Vineyard should have been an easy choice, but Cool Change was … more local.

Today's Special, Cool Change, Martinborough, NZ
Tuesday’s Doings

And Jimmy had already poured me a NZ pale ale.

How Far Down the Block?

If you’re driving Highway 2, the NZ Wine Trail, Martinborough is a 17 kilometer jog south – a pretty drive. Places never mentioned in travel books intrigue me.  Cool Change, located across the Kitchener Street from the well publicized Martinborough Hotel, was below guide book radar.

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Why you might be nearby?

You have been tasting at the vineyards surrounding Martinborough.  Quality vineyards stretch into town, their entrance a short walk from Memorial Square.

Lesser Known Facts

The name Cool Change was inspired by a change from city life and influenced by the Little River Band’s tune.

Local Recommendation

Returning at 9 pm, Cool Change was booming.  Platters of lamb came forth from the kitchen; every bar stool had been claimed.

Jimmy the barkeep morphed into the evening Maître D’, yet was easy to locate. His evening dress was the same as his 4 pm look; Venice Beach surfer dude circa 1968 featuring a loose white tee shirt, over-the-neck dirty blond hair and a three day growth. Diners in Cool Change’s dining room signaled for Jimmy’s attention.

My roast lamb platter had been reserved that afternoon.  Jimmy waved, confirming my lamb platter and pointing at an open table.

At 10:30 pm the dining room crowd had thinned, the bar in Cool Change still hummed.  A tri-athlete and a birthday guy sat side-by-side encouraging each other to drink beer.  Jimmy returned to the bar, he set a shot of Jameson Irish, neat, in front of me and said it was on the house.

Cool Change, TC cap
Service Award
Traverse City Cap

When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown.  For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded.  The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement. Jimmy, the barkeep/Maître D was gracious during the brief award ceremony.  He set the cap atop several bottles behind his bar.

Something for Another Day

At 7 am, Wednesday morning not a car drove down Puruatanga Road as I jogged past Tirohana Estate.  How many diners did they serve last night?  Next trip, maybe.

I turned the corner and trotted into Martinborough, past Cool Change.

Cool Change, Martinborough, New Zealand (2)
Cool Change for the Lamb Platter
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New Zealand Summer is Missing

New Zealand Summer; January 2014

New Zealand Summer;  January 2014

January is summer in New Zealand, the equivalent of July in North America.  Halfway through three weeks of exploring NZ my weather question was whether I would push on with the rest of the trip.

On Day Two, a 6.3 quake brought down the Hobbit Eagle that had loomed over the concourse the Wellington’s airport.  On Day Four in blew Cyclone June, on a two-day buzz through New Zealand featuring 80 MPH winds that smacked the North Island.

It was Day Nine in New Zealand, the weather summary consisted of two days of cyclone winds blowing 74+ MPH, each of the other seven days the wind achieved gale force rank; a velocity easily appreciated when it’s in your face.

Napier, New Zealand: Day Nine

Napier is touted as New Zealand’s prettiest city.  Located on the shore of Hawke’s Bay, Napier is also credited with being one of the sunniest and warmest climates in NZ.  Vineyards thrive.  Napier lies between the 39th and 40th degrees latitude south; a southern hemisphere counterpart to Baltimore or Kansas City.

        “Sawadee,” said the waitress at Thai Chef, a Napier restaurant. Sawadee means Hello in Thai.  Thai dominates ethnic food choices in New Zealand.  The Thai Chef had been recommended by a local woman who refused to suggest a second choice – despite the Thai Chef being locate two kilometers from downtown Napier.  
    
        “It’s cold,” I replied.  Napier  was overcast, it reminded me of Michigan in winter. I had run from the car to the entrance of Thai Chef.
       
        “Isn’t it a nice change to have the cool weather,” the waitress said.

 

How Far Down the Block?     Masterton, NZ:  Day Ten

Highway 2 is New Zealand’s Wine Trail.  Highway 2 heads out of Napier, reputed to be NZ sunniest town, and leads into Wellington, 250 miles south.  Along the way villages featuring wine and food beckon.  In the wine village of Masterton along Highway 2 the overnight temp dips to 2 degrees Centigrade; that’s 35 degrees Fahrenheit.

Only the sheep were dressed for the weather.

Why you might be nearby?     Picton, New Zealand; Day Twelve

On January 30, the temperature topped out at 68 degrees in Picton.  The day had been cloudy.  Just after 6 pm a 60 MPH blow swept through the village, cleaning the streets.  I sat at a picnic table in the courtyard of the Escape to Picton Hotel for the twenty minute assault; pretending it was summer.  After the wind settled, a New Zealand beer seemed appropriate.  The brew pub was only a three-minute walk.

        “I’ll have the pale ale,” I said to the barman.  He wore a shabby short-sleeve shirt. I wore a short-sleeve shirt, a long-sleeve shirt and a sweater. The barman was barefoot, I was not. 
        “Nice day,” the barman said.  He pulled the tap, the pale ale refused to pour.
        To make the barman’s day easier I said, “I’ll take one of the other brews if that tap is a problem.”
        The barman said, “No, no, the hot weather today has our tap system misbehaving.”

 

Lesser Known Facts     Weather terminology in New Zealand

Sam Wallace, the breakfast weatherman for TV One in NZ, delivers their morning forecast.  Sam’s style suggests he studied under Biff America, a local TV character in Summit County, Colorado twenty years ago.

Sam’s weather vocabulary differs from US terms.  Brilliant means sunny.  Fine translates as partly/mostly cloudy.  Chilly warns of really cold weather.  Kiwis use the word chilly in chilly bin – a picnic cooler.  What Americans call an ice box.

When Sam says, “Today we’ll experience explosive cyclogenesis,” he is advising that a cyclone with extremely colds winds will hit.

There is no such thing as a prevailing wind in NZ.  The wind blows from all directions.

Local Recommendation    Locate an Irish Pub so you can fortify with a shot of Irish Whiskey before bedtime.

A Kiwi in his 80’s tries to explain NZ weather to a small group of visiting complainers huddled inside Churchill’s bar, found inside the County Hotel, Napier; a rare real bar.

The experienced NZ man, a fruit grower of many years, ties the vagrancy of his weather to cricket, New Zealand’s impact on WW II, and the Marx Brothers.  None of those present, not even Grant the Canadian bartender, can interpret his musings. But, we were inside, it was warm and the beer taps were functioning.

Something for Nothing      NZ provides universal health care.  It is intended for Kiwis only, unless the foreign traveler is injured in NZ due to an accident – slipping on the ice for instance.

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New Zealand Russell; old hotel, older drinking club

Russell, New Zealand: RUSSELL BOATING CLUB; a drinking place from another time

Russell Boating Club; a drinking place from another time located in Russell, New Zealand, Matauwhi Bay, the Bay of Islands

What Appeals?   The deck hangs over the bay, the bar offers a decent choice of booze and a satisfying selection of New Zealand beer. But, at the Russell Boating Club, it’s the characters.

Russell Boating Club, Drinking restricted
Drinking Restricted Rule not enforced

When locals tell a good story, the main characters often do the telling.  Sometimes in a really local place, you step inside their community.

In France refugees from the 1960’s are known as soixante neuf’s – sixty-niners.  One foot stuck in 1969, the rest of their self dealing with 2014.  These entertaining peeps are defined by what they are not; they are not fat, not well groomed, not impressed by wealth and not subject to silly drug laws.  They are the same entertaining folks we hung with in college … 69’ers in the Bay of Islands had found each other at the RBC at 5 pm on January 23, 2014.

On the deck outside the Russell Boating Club a slender man with gray hair, trimmed brush cut style, aged skin and an ear-ring sits on the bench of a picnic table.  He leads the dialogue with eight of his sailor/drinkers – all wearing colorless jackets and faded Bermudas. Two beers rest in front of the speaker; one finished, the other half drained.  This is their community.

How Far Down the Block?   Four blocks from the base of the pier in Russell, New Zealand.  The pier is Russell’s hub.  Follow Matauwhi Road out of town, when the road turns left, continue straight on.

Why you might be nearby?   A) You are staying at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel and you want to go local. B) While sailing New Zealand’s Bay of Islands a cyclone strikes; you need the protection of a Hurricane Hole. Matauwhi Bay is your refuge.

Russell Boating Club, Dinghy Dock
Dinghy dock
Russell Boat Club

Lesser Known Facts:   The sole display of social stratification within the RBC community is revealed at the dinghy dock.  Twenty dinghies are tied up at the Russell Boating Club; ten dinghies are powered by a small outboard motor, the other ten rowed in. Those rowing have to time their return trip based on the in/out flow of the 11 foot tide.

Standing at the bar, Ida Bircher, bartender, responded to her customer, “If you want help, don’t ask my husband.”  Community advice.

Ida, an Irish rover, sailed into Matauwhi Bay and the Russell Boating Club two years ago from Fort Lauderdale by way of Australia.  Ida controls how quickly beer is served. When asked to repeat her name, she said, “Ida. Like in Ida good time.”

Local Recommendation    Meals are served at the RBC on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.  The price is a fraction of nearby alternatives.

A dinghy carrying eight was being rowed towards the RBC dinghy dock; the boat rode low in the water.  As the overloaded dinghy approached a hunched senior sailor, doing the South Pacific on a 24-foot vessel, scurried to help.  After a successful disembarkation, he passed by and whispered, “I’d rather assist on the dinghy dock than have to jump in.” Community wisdom.

Something for Nothing:   A) Feel young again at the Russell Boating Club without the cost of drugs. On this Wednesday eve in January 2014, the youngest person in the RBC was 51 years. B) Parking is free; either at the dinghy dock or in the lot for autos.

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New Zealand Russell; old hotel, older drinking club

Russell, New Zealand; The Duke of Marlborough Hotel & Restaurant

The Duke of Marlborough; a hotel and restaurant in Russell, New Zealand                 

Throwback hotels with a bar full of stories grab me. The Duke’s history is the history of New Zealand; a well-kept wooden hotel, serving New Zealand food on their harbor-view porch. Located two steps from the base of Russell’s pier in the Bay of Islands, thirst is soon solved.

The Duke lies four hours north of Auckland by car; only a cyclone blocked the path. In the Atlantic basin, a tropical cyclone is known as a hurricane, after the ancient Central American deity of wind, Huracan. In the Northwest Pacific Ocean windstorms exceeding 74 MPH are called typhoons. In New Zealand cyclones are just cyclones.

Tropical Cyclone June arrived in Auckland the day after the 6.3 Wine Trail earthquake rattled me awake from an afternoon nap.

Waterspouts and low vertical wind shear are side effects of tropical cyclones; glad to be driving, not flying, to Russell.  Rain from the Cyclone June will be intense, but the 80 MPH winds should blow all rain right off the windshield.

How Far Down the Block?  The easy route north from Auckland international airport is Highway 1, with a final jog down Highway 11.  Two options will conclude the trip; either a car ferry from Opua with a final 8 mile drive into Russell, or continue north on Hwy 11 to Pahia, park the car and grab the people ferry for at 15 minute voyage to the pier in the center of Russell. The Duke of Marlborough lies at the base of the pier, along the Strand.[mappress mapid=”2″]

Russell is the quiet, proper, and affluent alternative to nearby summer holiday destinations.  In the 1830’s it was New Zealand’s epicenter for prostitution, whaling and the first Christian church.

Why you might be nearby? A) You’re meeting your sailboat for the late January Regatta in Bay of Islands; B) take an overnight break on your drive to 90 mile beach in the far north of New Zealand.

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The Pier
click me

If you’re staying at Eagles Nest where, rooms start at NZ$2,300/night and need a real people fix, The Duke is a five block walk down Tapeka Road. Don’t be conspicuous.

Lesser Known Facts:  The Duke was the first establishment licensed to sell alcohol beverages in New Zealand; however, not having a license did not deter competitors in 1840.  In 1840’s Russell was known as the Hell Hole of the Pacific. The Duke of Marlborough was called Johnny Johnston’s Grog Shop

Local Recommendation:  Reserve a table on the porch overlooking the Strand for dinner; consider the Fish & Chips – the Duke turns this peasant dish into fine dining.

Cocktail hour take a bottle of NZ wine, drive the eponymous road to Long Beach – less than a mile from your room at the Duke.  Be couth, bring a take-away cup and sip from a bench on the grass strand along the shore of Oneroa Bay.

Russell, 7 am
Russell at 7 am

Something for Nothing:  In the early morning hike (known as a tramp in New Zealand) to Tapeka Point overlooking the Bay of Islands.  You can shorten your tramp by driving to the end of Tapeka Road, park the car and tramp the final 800 meters to the point.

 

 

 

 

 

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Auckland; Thai food New Zealand

Auckland, New Zealand; Mai Thai Restaurant

How to locate Mai Thai Restaurant

Auckland

The Airbus A330 approached the International Date Line at a speed of 550 MPH, the carriage began to shake, the seatbelt sign flashed on, the flight attendants scurried to their jump seats.  The Airbus rocked for two full minutes, then went smooth. Just like that DeLorean shook in Back to Future.  We had busted through the International Date Line. Friday 8 pm became Saturday 8 pm. I thought they made up that shaking business just for the movie; neat.

18 hours in a jet plane, across the equator, landing in New Zealand; my reservoir was depleted. A one hour, late afternoon nap on my second day in Auckland would be the final step required to restore me.  A few minutes after slipping into REM sleep, my hotel bed began vibrating, very pleasant, yet I didn’t recall a vibrate option.

Hobbit Land was shaking at 6.3 intensity.

The TV news folks predict 23 aftershocks will continue to quake New Zealand for a couple of weeks. The quake center lies 250 miles south of Auckland, alongside New Zealand Highway 2; The Wine Trail. This paved path leads from Hawks Bay into Wellington, the capital; my driving route five days hence.

At some vineyard along the Wine Trail, I’ll sip wine, watching the mountain tops jiggle; a New Zealand peep show. 

Mai Thai RestaurantMai Thai, across Street

Walking the sidewalks of Auckland, the multi-culture is remarkable. Thailand is not the largest émigré community, but they influence the dining options.

Mai Thai            As you enter Mai Thai    you will  be welcomed with the Wai, the Thai greeting consisting of a slight bow, with palms pressed together prayer-like. White linen covers the tables, superb spicy Thai food.

How Far Down the Block?

A half block away from Mai Thai, the largest structure in the Southern Hemisphere, Auckland’s Sky Tower, looms.  Sky City, anchored by its tower, is the easiest destination to locate while exploring a new city anywhere in the world.

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Why you might be nearby

The Sky Tower complex features a Casino and two large hotels.  It is surrounded by several first class eating and drinking spots.  A four block walk and you arrive at the restaurants and bars of Viaduct Harbor. Sky City is a major confluence for busses serving metro Auckland

Lesser known Facts

Prepping for my trip to New Zealand, three tastes kept tempting me; seafood, lamb and Thai.  Lamb ribs, a featured appetizer at the Depot, were my first taste along with the local Epic pale ale.

I washed the huge serving of green-lip mussels for lunch at the Auckland Seafood Market with a six-glass tasting of NZ red wines.

Mai Thai Restaurant was recommended by 1) an Irish bartender while serving me a Tullamore Irish Whiskey, straight-up and 2) a Kiwi from Christchurch, a Microsoft guy who commuted to Auckland weekly.  Their recommendations sealed the deal.

Local Recommendation

Around the corner on Federal Street, 200 feet from Mai Thai, lies The Depot, for fresh oysters and NZ wine on tap.

Something For Nothing    Freebees

In New Zealand, if you’re a senior 62 years or older, lots of stuff is free or discounted.  First step is to buy a New Zealand Senior card for $39 – I did this before leaving the states.  Best free service for seniors in Auckland is the bus system.  The City link, Inner Link and Metro Link serve rings of the city – like a metro tour bus without audio. Bus 767 hugs the coast on the ride to Mission Bay and St. Helier’s, both locations have a seaside walkway and several ocean view eating drink spots.  I’d live here in January-March