Isla Verde, San Juan, Puerto Rico
Hotel La Playa, restaurant is known as La Playita
A bar/restaurant/hotel on top of the Caribbean Sea
6 Calle Amapola St., Carolina 00979
As the plane descends into San Juan, palm trees and surf at Isla Verde beach appear out the left window. Exiting San Juan’s airport, there are no hotel shuttles. Taxis in San Juan have sole right to transport arriving vacationers to their hotel. The ride to Isla Verde takes 5 minutes; perfect for snow-belt refugees.
Orchids line the short path leading to the front desk.
“Welcome back,” said Linda, the office manager, as I signed at the front desk of Hotel La Playa. “Feels like I’m back home.” I said.
“When did you first visit us?” she asked.
“1973.”
Why this place appeals to me
The walk through the small courtyard filled with flowering tropical pants leads to a ten seat bar. Fourteen tables serve the open air restaurant. A plank deck hangs over the Caribbean Sea. When the 18 inch tide rises, the Caribbean Sea sprays the feet of imbibers on the deck.
Robert, bartender/waiter/diver, asks, “What to drink?” My choices have narrowed to a chilled Presidente beer, brewed in the Dominican Republic, or the local favorite; a Mojito mashed behind the bar, “Gracias, Don Facundo Bacardí.”
How Far Down the Block?
The tiny peninsula of Isla Verde separates two of San Juan’s great beaches; Isla Verde and Pine Grove – each a 1.5 mile stretch of sand. [mappress mapid=”14″]Hotel La Playa sits equidistant between the San Juan Ritz Carleton Hotel and the El San Juan Hotel – both featuring pricey beach side bars and glitzy casinos. A 400 meter walk to either hotel.
Both hotels can be reached by the beach during the day.
Why you might be nearby?
The airport is a five minute cab ride.
You’ve just witnessed your first cock fight – yes, it’s legal in San Juan; Club Gallistico is just four blocks from La Playa.
Lesser Known Facts
Isla Verde, tiny island 400 north of the peninsula give the area its name. The Isla Verde Marine Reserve lies 25 meters off the hotel deck; easily accessed for snorkels.
When Fidel Castro marched into Havana in January 1959, millions of Cubans began an exodus towards the U.S. Isla Verde was an important settling point for 1960’s Cuban emigrants. Still based in Isla Verde, Casa Cuba remains a significant Cuban social club. The first Cubans to flee were the wealthiest. Departing Cuba on flights from Varadero Beach, Cuba, the emigrants became known as Varaderos.
Local Recommendation
Pepe Canosa was an early emigrant, he landed Puerto Rico in 1964. Pepe founded Metropole Restaurant in 1965. Metropole is a four block walk from La Playa Hotel. Pepe’s famous Gallinita rellena, Montuno Cubano and Black Bean Soup continue to be served by his descendants. Metropole is the best in local dining, surperb wine list, top-notch service featuring Cuban/Puerto Rico dishes.
Mojitos mixed and served over the bar at La Playita cost half the price of those served at the nearby Ritz Carleton beach bar.
Upgrade to one of the two ocean-front hotel rooms; 209 or 207. Wedge open windows; drift off to crashing waves.
Something for “almost” Nothing
Slip an icy Presidente into a cooler, step out the front entrance of Hotel La Playa and onto the sands of Isla Verde beach. 200 meters down the beach a local guy rents chaise lounges under a palm tree for $4/day.
The deck at La Playa is a primo location in San Juan to observe a full moon rising.