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New Zealand Summer is Missing

New Zealand Summer; January 2014

New Zealand Summer;  January 2014

January is summer in New Zealand, the equivalent of July in North America.  Halfway through three weeks of exploring NZ my weather question was whether I would push on with the rest of the trip.

On Day Two, a 6.3 quake brought down the Hobbit Eagle that had loomed over the concourse the Wellington’s airport.  On Day Four in blew Cyclone June, on a two-day buzz through New Zealand featuring 80 MPH winds that smacked the North Island.

It was Day Nine in New Zealand, the weather summary consisted of two days of cyclone winds blowing 74+ MPH, each of the other seven days the wind achieved gale force rank; a velocity easily appreciated when it’s in your face.

Napier, New Zealand: Day Nine

Napier is touted as New Zealand’s prettiest city.  Located on the shore of Hawke’s Bay, Napier is also credited with being one of the sunniest and warmest climates in NZ.  Vineyards thrive.  Napier lies between the 39th and 40th degrees latitude south; a southern hemisphere counterpart to Baltimore or Kansas City.

        “Sawadee,” said the waitress at Thai Chef, a Napier restaurant. Sawadee means Hello in Thai.  Thai dominates ethnic food choices in New Zealand.  The Thai Chef had been recommended by a local woman who refused to suggest a second choice – despite the Thai Chef being locate two kilometers from downtown Napier.  
    
        “It’s cold,” I replied.  Napier  was overcast, it reminded me of Michigan in winter. I had run from the car to the entrance of Thai Chef.
       
        “Isn’t it a nice change to have the cool weather,” the waitress said.

 

How Far Down the Block?     Masterton, NZ:  Day Ten

Highway 2 is New Zealand’s Wine Trail.  Highway 2 heads out of Napier, reputed to be NZ sunniest town, and leads into Wellington, 250 miles south.  Along the way villages featuring wine and food beckon.  In the wine village of Masterton along Highway 2 the overnight temp dips to 2 degrees Centigrade; that’s 35 degrees Fahrenheit.

Only the sheep were dressed for the weather.

Why you might be nearby?     Picton, New Zealand; Day Twelve

On January 30, the temperature topped out at 68 degrees in Picton.  The day had been cloudy.  Just after 6 pm a 60 MPH blow swept through the village, cleaning the streets.  I sat at a picnic table in the courtyard of the Escape to Picton Hotel for the twenty minute assault; pretending it was summer.  After the wind settled, a New Zealand beer seemed appropriate.  The brew pub was only a three-minute walk.

        “I’ll have the pale ale,” I said to the barman.  He wore a shabby short-sleeve shirt. I wore a short-sleeve shirt, a long-sleeve shirt and a sweater. The barman was barefoot, I was not. 
        “Nice day,” the barman said.  He pulled the tap, the pale ale refused to pour.
        To make the barman’s day easier I said, “I’ll take one of the other brews if that tap is a problem.”
        The barman said, “No, no, the hot weather today has our tap system misbehaving.”

 

Lesser Known Facts     Weather terminology in New Zealand

Sam Wallace, the breakfast weatherman for TV One in NZ, delivers their morning forecast.  Sam’s style suggests he studied under Biff America, a local TV character in Summit County, Colorado twenty years ago.

Sam’s weather vocabulary differs from US terms.  Brilliant means sunny.  Fine translates as partly/mostly cloudy.  Chilly warns of really cold weather.  Kiwis use the word chilly in chilly bin – a picnic cooler.  What Americans call an ice box.

When Sam says, “Today we’ll experience explosive cyclogenesis,” he is advising that a cyclone with extremely colds winds will hit.

There is no such thing as a prevailing wind in NZ.  The wind blows from all directions.

Local Recommendation    Locate an Irish Pub so you can fortify with a shot of Irish Whiskey before bedtime.

A Kiwi in his 80’s tries to explain NZ weather to a small group of visiting complainers huddled inside Churchill’s bar, found inside the County Hotel, Napier; a rare real bar.

The experienced NZ man, a fruit grower of many years, ties the vagrancy of his weather to cricket, New Zealand’s impact on WW II, and the Marx Brothers.  None of those present, not even Grant the Canadian bartender, can interpret his musings. But, we were inside, it was warm and the beer taps were functioning.

Something for Nothing      NZ provides universal health care.  It is intended for Kiwis only, unless the foreign traveler is injured in NZ due to an accident – slipping on the ice for instance.

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Auckland; Thai food New Zealand

Auckland, New Zealand; Mai Thai Restaurant

Auckland

The Airbus A330 approached the International Date Line at a speed of 550 MPH, the carriage began to shake, the seatbelt sign flashed on, the flight attendants scurried to their jump seats.  The Airbus rocked for two full minutes, then went smooth. Just like that DeLorean shook in Back to Future.  We had busted through the International Date Line. Friday 8 pm became Saturday 8 pm. I thought they made up that shaking business just for the movie; neat.

18 hours in a jet plane, across the equator, landing in New Zealand; my reservoir was depleted. A one hour, late afternoon nap on my second day in Auckland would be the final step required to restore me.  A few minutes after slipping into REM sleep, my hotel bed began vibrating, very pleasant, yet I didn’t recall a vibrate option.

Hobbit Land was shaking at 6.3 intensity.

The TV news folks predict 23 aftershocks will continue to quake New Zealand for a couple of weeks. The quake center lies 250 miles south of Auckland, alongside New Zealand Highway 2; The Wine Trail. This paved path leads from Hawks Bay into Wellington, the capital; my driving route five days hence.

At some vineyard along the Wine Trail, I’ll sip wine, watching the mountain tops jiggle; a New Zealand peep show. 

Mai Thai RestaurantMai Thai, across Street

Walking the sidewalks of Auckland, the multi-culture is remarkable. Thailand is not the largest émigré community, but they influence the dining options.

Mai Thai            As you enter Mai Thai    you will  be welcomed with the Wai, the Thai greeting consisting of a slight bow, with palms pressed together prayer-like. White linen covers the tables, superb spicy Thai food.

How Far Down the Block?

A half block away from Mai Thai, the largest structure in the Southern Hemisphere, Auckland’s Sky Tower, looms.  Sky City, anchored by its tower, is the easiest destination to locate while exploring a new city anywhere in the world.

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Why you might be nearby

The Sky Tower complex features a Casino and two large hotels.  It is surrounded by several first class eating and drinking spots.  A four block walk and you arrive at the restaurants and bars of Viaduct Harbor. Sky City is a major confluence for busses serving metro Auckland

Lesser known Facts

Prepping for my trip to New Zealand, three tastes kept tempting me; seafood, lamb and Thai.  Lamb ribs, a featured appetizer at the Depot, were my first taste along with the local Epic pale ale.

I washed the huge serving of green-lip mussels for lunch at the Auckland Seafood Market with a six-glass tasting of NZ red wines.

Mai Thai Restaurant was recommended by 1) an Irish bartender while serving me a Tullamore Irish Whiskey, straight-up and 2) a Kiwi from Christchurch, a Microsoft guy who commuted to Auckland weekly.  Their recommendations sealed the deal.

Local Recommendation

Around the corner on Federal Street, 200 feet from Mai Thai, lies The Depot, for fresh oysters and NZ wine on tap.

Something For Nothing    Freebees

In New Zealand, if you’re a senior 62 years or older, lots of stuff is free or discounted.  First step is to buy a New Zealand Senior card for $39 – I did this before leaving the states.  Best free service for seniors in Auckland is the bus system.  The City link, Inner Link and Metro Link serve rings of the city – like a metro tour bus without audio. Bus 767 hugs the coast on the ride to Mission Bay and St. Helier’s, both locations have a seaside walkway and several ocean view eating drink spots.  I’d live here in January-March