Boutique Hotel, St. John US Virgin Island
Morning #1, an animated man, eyes focused, addresses a couple at a table
15 feet distant across the 17th century stone patio. The speaker is seated one step outside the Breakfast room entrance at Estate Lindholm. A pergola canopy shades the man. I’m arriving late, the conversation concerns recent events on the US Virgin Island of St. John. The narrator concludes, approaches me.
“I’m Brion,” he says, “This is Laney.” The woman sharing his table nods.
He points towards his guests, “These folks are . . .”
The proprietor of Estate Lindholm has included me in his morning group. Assessing his concierge responsibilities, Brion Morrisette assumes the role of conductor. He digests the questions of Estate Lindholm guests, gauges the underlying curiosity of their island inquiries, then provides guidance for their Virgin Island day.
Brion’s census kicks-off around 8 am from a table just outside the “Breakfast” room. A room that morphs into an Honor Bar at 10 am.
Quote from Owner
30 minutes ago, the sun set. Seated on terrace of Estate Lindholm, the lights of St. Thomas twinkle. Brion Morrisette (Nicole’s father), steps out of the Caribbean dark, just like the Green Hornet on a night mission. Brion is bare chested, invigorated.
“Hi, beautiful isn’t it?” Brion (Nicole’s father) says.
I ask, “What have you been doing?”“Just finished my evening workout,” Brion says, “Ran the Lind Point Trail.” He seats himself, “Mind if I join you?”
Brion Morrisette (Nicole’s father) is the host/proprietor of Estate Lindholm. The hotel was launched by his parents, as a young man Brion was educated as an archeologist, then later as a lawyer. Both certifications achieved while contributing to Estate Lindholm’s destiny. Somehow, he found time to train and compete in the 1984 LA Olympics, representing the US Virgin Islands in the pole vault. At a height of 17 feet, six inches, Brion was challenging the limits of the pole vault ceiling.
Why this place appeals to me
Arriving in St. John at Cruz Bay ferry dock, I dial Estate Lindholm.
“Hi, this is Nicole (Brion’s daughter).” Nicole advises me the Dolphin Market, a two-block walk from the ferry dock will satisfy my provisioning needs; beer, rum, wine.
“Call me when you’re done, I’ll pick you up,” Nicole says.
Nicole Morrissette (Brion’s daughter) waves me towards her SUV. I grunt under the weight of my double-bagged provisions as I test each step leading down, outside Dolphin Market’s front door. Estate Lindholm is only half a mile away, but the last leg rises 500 feet uphill.
“Thanks for the ride, Nicole.”
Flamboyant tree at Estate Lindholm
- Freshwater pool – deep point five and a half feet,
- A continuously operating 20-gallon ice machine,
- Back-up booze on display at Estate Lindholm’s Honor Bar,
- Back-up cold beer, available for the taking by signature,
- Room deck includes two rocking chairs and a table with two upright chairs,
- Caribbean roosters to call me awake, advise of Caribbean dawn at 6 am.
- Children are discouraged.
The first ferry of each day departs Cruz Bay heading to Red Hook at 6 am. A single horn blast announces embarkation. The ferry’s toot ricochets across the still water in Cruz Bay; alerting residents of the harbor town that day has begun.
How Far Down the Block?
Descending the Delta 757, arriving passengers are led into a gauntlet of greeters wearing white lab coats at St. Thomas airport. The US Virgin Islands require incoming visitors to demonstrate a negative Covid-19 test and upload the information on the USVI internet web portal.
I had completed all visitor requirements before arrival.
“We don’t have a record of your information,” the compliance official said, “Nothing has arrived.”
Cell phones wave with proof of negative Covid-19 tests, lab attendants nod, the incoming VI vacationers are gestured through the Covid checkpoint and herded towards the airport taxi stand. St. John is reached via ferry from the port of Red Hook, St. Thomas – a 30 minute cab ride from the airport.
TO JEEP OR NOT TO JEEP? An Estate Lindholm dilemma! Rental vehicles cost $80+/day. Estate Lindholm offers free on-site parking for your rented jeep. Do you want to stay on property, or to explore St. John?
The short walk from Estate Lindholm into Cruz Bay descends 500 feet down North Shore road. Easy. Returning to Estate Lindholm on foot, its hot, even minimal baggage grows heavy. The road has no shoulder. After dark, an island newbie has, perhaps, a 35% chance of making the Estate Lindholm finish line. Walk down the hill, taxi up the hill.
Rent a jeep for one day, taxi about the other days.
Why you might be nearby?
St. John has a unique personality. If you’re visiting St. Thomas, you’ll be tempted to ferry over to St. John.
Lesser Known Facts
In parts of the Caribbean, male tree frogs entertain when it’s dark. St. John tree frogs sing to attract females. A few sing when its dry; but lots of frogs sing after a warm tropical shower. Tree frogs are difficult to spot, less than an inch long and tan, they blend with Estate Lindholm’s tropical camouflage. Tree frog crooning is distinct and respectfully timed. When a froggy joins his singing mates, he waits courteously until no other frog is vocalizing.
The “joiner” takes over that “unused” music slot – forming a RAT PACK of frogs who bounce musical notes back and forth amongst St. John palm trees; sometimes in harmony, sometimes in challenge, while eye-trolling the night for amused female admirers. They jostle notes in sequence. Picture Sammy Davis Jr. joining Dean and Frank mid-performance.
Minimal evidence remains from the back-to-back hurricanes that battered St. John in 2017.
Local Recommendation
At The Landing, an open-air dining/drinking venue facing the Ferry Dock, an aging, white guy strums a guitar. His partner, a Black woman, sings. He wears a baseball cap featuring the old English D of my Detroit Tigers.
“Mark,” he tells me his name. We talk Detroit Tigers before he launches his next tune.
“Came down to St. John around 1985, kind of stayed.”
He hits a couple of notes, I retreat to listening distance. Caribbean islands attract folks who sometimes forget to go home. Refugees having escaped the shackles of the first world.
Cruz Bay dining offers, 6-8 great choices. All casual wear. For lunch, Cruz Bay has 3 local restaurants along the shore just south of the ferry dock, where you can alternate between sips, bites and plunge in in the waters of the bay. Absolutely no incoming swells to battle. Six steps into Cruz Bay the water is chest high.
Cruzan Rum, produced on St. Croix. US Virgin Island; Heineken beer delivered by Dutch traders; Presidente beer compliments of the Dominican Republic.
Something for Nothing
Breakfast (included) begins around 7 am, served within the first floor “Honor Bar” room. Coffee is ready even earlier.
Snorkeling from the beach on a Caribbean island requires precise execution. Bring a beach chair; Estate Lindholm provides Tommy Bahama fold-outs, easily portered by shoulder strap. The beach chair is essential for post-snorkel CARIBBEAN MEDITATION – thinking about nothing while staring at the horizon.
Bring a four-beer, soft cooler (provided in-room at Estate Lindholm). Pack the cooler with ice from Estate Lindholm’s 20-gallon ice machine, place two soft koozies atop the ice. Caribbean Meditation cannot be achieved with “salty mouth”.
Drape your Estate Lindholm beach towel over the cooler; prolonging ice life. Enter the ocean via a sandy shore with a gentle grade, resist the temptation to leap from promising rock ledge down the beach.
Stare at the horizon.
