Tag: hidden

Vienna, Austria: 7 Stern Brau; a microbrewery and eating place in Spittelberg

Post author By Tom
Post date May 18, 2014
No Comments on Vienna, Austria: 7 Stern Brau; a microbrewery and eating place in Spittelberg

Vienna, Austria
7 Stern Brau, a microbrewery and eating place in Spittelberg
Siebensterngasse 19, Vienna, Austria

Microbreweries in Vienna are called Gasthausbrauereien. Gasthausbrau’s feature Zwicklbier; an unfiltered beer, clouded, no preservatives.

The barman stood behind a series of beer taps, drawing a liter. I took a stool at the bar, my preferred dining seat. Nobody else was at the bar, but the dining tables in 7 Stern Brau were filled.

“You speak English?” I asked.
“Of course I do, I’m Alexander,” he stretched his hand across the bar.
“Describe your Wiener Helles beer?”
“Blond, unfiltered, no preservatives,” Alexander said.
Blond, a little dirty and no make-up, my type, “I’ll take one.”

Over Alexander’s head, above the beer taps (bierschenke), stacked upside down and ready to pour, were 10 bottles of Austrian Schnapps; each graded at 35% alcohol. A different fruit appeared on each label.

7 Stern, brau, Vienna, Austria, spittelberg, ratskeller, local, hidden, restaurant, bar, cheap meals, beer, potato, salad, schnapps, price, tom lane, dine, food, microbrewery, garden, purity — “Of course I speak English.”

“Alex,” I asked, “what is the true flavor used for schnapps, real Austrian schnapps.”
“Apple,” he said. The schnapps arrived next, before dinner.

The bar waitress appeared with a Vienna smile; she set a menu on the bar.

“Do you speak English?” I asked.
“Of course I do,” she said.
“I’m Tom, what’s your name?”
“Alexandra,” she said.
“Of course it is,” I replied.

Why this place appeals to me
A food critic once observed that the quality of the food declines as you rise and improves as you descend. I.E. have a drink at the restaurant in the sky, eat in a ratskeller. I descended ten steps to enter 7 Stern Brau.

The sign outside read BIERGARTEN, but the ten steps down? Copper kettles gleamed from behind the bar. Walking through 7 Stern, a rear door led up ten steps to a courtyard with trees, tables and local beer drinkers.

How Far Down the Block?
Spittelberg is a six-block neighborhood just north of Vienna’s inner ring. It is served by the Volkstheater subway stop. The cobblestone streets of Spittelburg will thrill the shopper traveling with you. [mappress mapid=”13″]

7 Stern Brau lies on the edge of Spittlebug. Gasthoff and restaurants, tables set with white linen and flickering candles on outdoor terraces, were mostly empty on a Monday evening in May. 7 Stern Brau was buzzing; filled with Viennese chattering in German. Real Austrian food was being served at prices well below those at the vacant tables of their nearby competitors.

Why you might be nearby? The Museums, the Austrian Folk Theater and Vienna’s English Theater.

Lesser Known Facts
Viennese have great pride in the quality of their water.

“You don’t need to order bottle water in Vienna,” Willy, barman at Hansy Gasthoff said. The Hansy is across town from 7 Stern Brau, just outside the Praterstern subway stop.
“I never do when beer is an option,” I said.
“No, I mean when you want water,” Willy said, “Vienna water is pure, from the mountains.”

Water flows into Vienna from springs in the Lower Austrian Alps, reaching the Austrian capital 36 hours later; no pumps and under strict regulations. Vienna has declared their water White Gold and placed it under the protection of the Austrian constitution. In 1998, the Vienna Water Line Hiking Path opened following the water route from the mountains into Vienna! The head of the hiking path can be reached by public transportation for a leisurely walk back into Vienna . . . for a beer.

Local Recommendation
Drink Green; this concept can be overdone. Pesticides have allowed the US to feed the world, but that’s another tale. The Reinheitsgebot, the German beer purity law, ensures that beer made only from barley, hops, water, and yeast – no preservatives – can be brewed and consumed on site in Vienna

Ask for a Weiner Helles; a 4.6% alcohol, unfiltered beer without preservatives. 7 Stern’s head brewer is a Slovak; from the land that gives us Czech Budweiser and Urquell.

Eat local; sample the German Potato Salad (kartoffsalat), Cabbage Salad (krautsalat) and Wiener Schnitzel

Something for Nothing
Roam the cobblestone streets of Spittelberg; potentially a free stroll. The shops, alternative restaurants will keep you busy for hours.

Tags 7 Stern, Austria, bar, beer, brau, cheap meals, dine, food, garden, hidden, local, microbrewery, potato, price, purity, ratskeller, restaurant, salad, schnapps, spittelberg, Tom Lane, Vienna

Europe Florence; Oltrarno enoteca favorites Italy

Florence, Italy: Enoteca Pitti Gola; food and wine in the Oltrarno

Post author By Tom
Post date May 18, 2014
No Comments on Florence, Italy: Enoteca Pitti Gola; food and wine in the Oltrarno

Pitti, gola, enoteca, florence, italy, oltrarno, wine, local, hidden, ponte, vecchio, dine, food, meals, tom lane, Italian, tasting — View of Pitti Palace from the terrace of Enoteca Pitti Gola

Florence, Italy
Enoteca Pitti Gola, food and wine in the Oltrarno
Piazza de Pitti 16

“Hey, you’re back,” Zeno called from behind his bar as I entered Pitti Gola.
“Back for a glass of Italian wine,” I said, “You choose.”
“Ciao, you’re back,” Edoardo, Zeno’s older brother, popped up the stairway leading from the cellar of Pitti Gola.
“You need some of my money,” I said, “I read the Italian economy struggles.”
Edoardo shrugged, “Maybe some places in Italy are struggling, we are doing OK.”

Why this place appeals to me.
On 2008 New Year’s Eve Edoardo, Manuele and Zeno purchased the Enoteca. In February 2009 I spent three weeks in Florence. The guys were all single then, they are all married now. Edoardo and Zeno are brothers, Manuele is a longtime friend.

The three owners are serious about their wine. I’m half-serious; serious about sipping, preferring wines at half price.

Pitti Gola is not Off The Map. This enoteca has been discovered. The ambience is low key; casual wear works. The wine is delivered in high style. Describe to the guys what you like to sip and let them choose. They pour the wine, describe the grape, the location of the vineyard and what’s happening in Italy.

Pitti Gola serves Tuscan bites and plates. The outdoor patio seats 8-10, inside is seating for 6-8. The small cellar can accommodate a party of 10-12. Zeno loves to talk wine, when he leads dinner conversation in the cellar, time flies.

How Far Down the Block?
Cross the Ponte Vecchio on foot, south into the Oltrarno; leaving the throngs of tourists behind you. It is a direct 250 meter stroll directly south, towards the Pitti Palace. The shops along Via De Gucciardini will thrill those who believe Black Friday is their day. [mappress mapid=”12″]

Bus D, a Florence short bus, stops directly in front of Pitti Palace, and Pitti Gola. Bus D runs from the Santa Maria Novella train station (the main station) along the entire Oltrarno, from Ponte Vespucci to a terminus at Piazza Ravenna.

Why you might be nearby?
Theorem #1 – You’re touring the Vasari Corridor, yawning, looking out an ancient porthole and realize you’ve crossed the Arno and are now free to roam about. Look for a secret escape; Dan Brown in his novel, Dante’s Inferno, described where the hidden escape from the Pitti Palace is located. Brown didn’t reference it, but by my calculations the escape is within 75 meters of Pitti Gola’s wine sanctuary.

Theorem #2 – Your in line at the Pitti Palace; an hour from gaining entrance. Across the street, under the street side awnings of a small enoteca, people are chattering, laughing. You make a choice; wine trumps art.

Lesser Known Facts
Once across the Ponte Vecchio and into the Oltrarno, the two block walk south to Pitti Gola on Via De Gucciardini is a fascinating shopping street. High quality wares, presented with an absence of name brands and absence of name brand prices. If your partner is chirping about shopping time sacrificed while you pursue an afternoon glass of Italian wine, common ground can be achieved in this neighborhood.

Within Enoteca Pitti Gola, wine fills the walls. Alongside the wine bottles, small glass vessels hold soil samples from the Tuscan vineyards where the grapes grow. Down the block from Enoteca Pitti Gola, the guys maintain a wine cellar. Zeno ran to his wine cellar to retrieve a special wine.

“You need more space,” I said.
Zeno replied, “I share my space with the wine, the wine is what is important.”

Local Recommendation
The Boboli Gardens, behind the Pitti Palace, directly across the street from Pitti Palace, might be the nicest outdoor meander in Florence.

Something for Nothing
Once inside Boboli Gardens, access the adjacent Bardini Gardens from an unadvertised gate in the high NE Boboli corner. Boboli has the best sculpture and foliage, Bardini has spectacular views over Florence. Take Dante’s Inferno and read the passage where Robert Langdon and Sienna Brooks scale the Boboli walls at night, using the garden to avoid their pursuers

Tags dine, enoteca, Florence, food, gola, hidden, Italian, Italy, local, meals, oltrarno, pitti, ponte, tasting, Tom Lane, vecchio, wine

Europe Italy Siena; dine & dance

Siena, Italy: I Terzi, a local enoteca

Post author By Tom
Post date May 18, 2014
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I Terzi, siena, italy, tuscany, enoteca, wine bar, restaurant, local, hidden, bar, food, chianti, tom lane

Siena, Italy: I Terzi, a local enoteca
Via dei Termini 7, Siena, Italy

An enoteca features wine. Many Italian enotecas have introduced food to accompany their wine. Often the wine touted by the enoteca has been pressed in the surrounding hills; and the accompanying food harvested from the same local region.

Outside I Terzi at 8:15 pm one guy sat at the deserted table on the terrace; the temperature was 50 degrees. His wife and two teenage daughters were inspecting the menu posted outside the entrance. He called,

“Have you been to this place before?” It was almost dark, he wore a ski parka.
“No,” I said, “but those I trust recommend I Terzi over some of the more highly touted ristorante that surround Piazza del Campo and the Duomo.”
“OK, sounds like an endorsement.” Charles, an attorney from NY City gathered his clan, “We’ve only got one night in Siena,” he said as they entered I Terzi.

Why this place appeals to me

Michele, one of two partners in I Terzi, hails from Bari, in the south of Italy on the Adriatic coast. Michele’s grey hair flowed over his ears. He and his partner, Sergio, launched the enoteca in 1995; they added food in 2001. The marble counter at the entrance serves as both the welcome/reservation counter and as the carving board for the huge Bistecca Fiorentina.

Michele and his partner, Sergio, seem to know each guest arriving at I Terzi. Michele recognized me from my earlier visit to reserve a seat. As Michele conversed at a nearby table, he caught me eavesdropping. He turned to me,

“We attended university together,” he said.

The wife of Michele’s longtime friend tossed me the look (lo sguardo) indicating she had been the audience for their remembrances before.

How Far Down the Block?
Via Banche di Sopra is the north route, leading to Piazza del Campo from the train station and the bus station. I Terzi lies east and downhill, one block from Via Banchi di Sopra. [mappress mapid=”10″]

To reach I Terzi visit Nannini at Via Banchi di Sopra 24, departing the front door go straight(east), one block, down the alley Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio, turn left on Via dei Termine – you have arrived.

Why you might be nearby?
Siena evolved from the convergence of three ridges leading to the city center; the Piazza del Campo. I Terzi refers to the three ridges that carve Siena into thirds. Each of the three ridges is served by a main thoroughfare. From the north, visitors arriving by bus and train walk along Via Banchi di Sopra towards the center of Siena. Eventually you’ll find yourself amongst these throngs tramping towards the Piazza del Campo.

Lesser Known Facts
I Terzi’s building once known as Torre Rossa, housed Siena’s Ballanti family.

Local Recommendation
I Terzi revises their menu every 15 days. Each day the enoteca offers five starters (antipasti), five first courses (primi) and five main courses (Secondi). Black Cabbage soup (cavalo nero) is a specialty.

Siena lies within Tuscany, and the wine choices cover some of Italy’s best. Chianti wine, produced in the region immediately north of Siena, is frequently dismissed by Americans.

The Chianti is defined by Florence on the north and Siena on the south. Vino della casa, the house wine, is usually Chianti in Siena. It is local, it is pure; relatively free of preservatives, and the first sip is hard to believe. Local fattoria, a country wine merchant, distinguish the fermentation/aging processes as Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Reserva.

The house wine usually has a story; a relative from the country who produces the wine that arrives in a large glass flask (fiascha) ready for delivery directly to your table. The second time you order wine at I Terzi, ask Michele or Sergio to guide you through their selection of 1800 bottles.

Something for Nothing
Take an after dinner stroll through the cafes and lights of Piazza del Campo, host of the twice annual Palio di Siena; a horse race contested by the 17 neighborhoods (contrada) of Siena. Piazza del Campo is only 200 meters from the entrance of I Terzi.

Tags bar, chianti, enoteca, food, hidden, I Terzi, Italy, local, restaurant, Siena, Tom Lane, Tuscany, wine bar

Europe Florence; Oltrarno enoteca favorites Italy

Florence, Italy: La Fiaschetteria; a local wine sipping place

Post author By Tom
Post date May 17, 2014
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La Fiaschetteria, Florence, Italy, oltrarno, fiaschetteria, drink, local, hidden, undiscovered, bar, tom lane, river, Italian, artesian, wine, bridge, pitti, language, English

Florence, Italy
La Fiaschetteria: a local wine sipping place
Via de Serragli 47r, across the Arno River, the Oltrarno

After dark in April 2013, in the Oltrarno section of Florence, Italy, four blocks south of the Arno River, I’m saying goodbye at La Fiaschetteria.

(Translated from Italian)
“Arrivaderci Luca, see you next year. Each April, for five years, I drink your wine here at Fiaschetteria. We speak in Italian only. You say no English is spoken at La Fiaschetteria. Study while I’m gone. Next April we’ll speak English. Ciao Luca.” The next day I would travel home to Michigan.

One year later, April 2014, at the front entrance of La Fiaschetteria in the Oltrarno of Florence.

(Translated from Italian)
“Ciao Luca, it’s me, Tom. It’s been a year, I return to speak English with you my old friend.”
In English, I continue, “Have you been studying English the past year?”
Luca says in Italian, “No Tom, non ho studiato Inglese. Parliamo quest’anno in Italiano.”

The Oltrarno of Florence for centuries has been home to the artesians of Tuscany; cobblers, frame-makers, artists, jewelry-makers, lace-makers and musicians.

Craftsmen and bohemians are served by several trattorias, bars, and just one fiaschetteria. Local residents arrive at La Fiaschetteria each evening to chat and fill their empty wine bottles.

Why this place appeals to me
“At La Fiaschetteria we only speak Italian,” Luca has been telling me for six years. His small fiaschetteria holds only 8-10 people inside. Luca’s patrons flow out the door and into Via de Serragli. There are no other Americans to be found amongst the 7 pm crowd. Luca’s customers, locals who live in the Oltrarno, across the Arno River, hear Luca proclaim that again this year we will be speaking in Italian, seize the opportunity to improve their English. Assisted by wine, we begin to communicate.

A woman enters La Fiaschetteria with an empty wine bottle, hands it to Luca and says, “Rosso di Montalcino; riempirlo e un bicchiere.” Luca pours her a glass of wine from the spigot, exchanges the glass for her bottle, places her empty bottle under the tap and fills it with red wine. Her bottle is quickly corked with a barely noticeable press hidden behind the counter. Luca returns her bottle, full of Tuscan red wine and says, “Tre euro.” Translation four dollars.

How Far Down the Block?
Cross the Arno River on the Ponte alla Carraia (the Carraia bridge) heading south, leaving the Duomo and Piazza Repubblica behind. Walk directly ahead (south) 400 meters. One block from the bridge the street becomes Via de Serragli. [mappress mapid=”11″]

Why you might be nearby?
a) You’re in line at the Pitti Palace facing a one-hour wait outside the main gate. It’s getting late in the afternoon. La Fiaschetteria is four blocks away, b) Your wife, tired from shopping, is napping. You’re not tired.

Lesser Known Facts
La Fiaschetteria came to life in 1947 from the ashes of World War II. Luca’s father, with a hand from his grandfather, began serving Florentines. In Florence’s Oltrarno a post war fiaschetteria provided bulk wine for local folks to carry home, a glass at the counter, a place to chatter, smoke and imagine a better world.

The great Florence flood of 1966 damaged all Florence. Water stood knee-deep in La Fiaschetteria. After Luca’s father died, his mother, Vittoria, ran La Fiaschetteria. In 1985, Luca, then 27 took over. He expanded the Tuscan wine selection stocked by La Fiaschetteria, stabilized the small interior and carried forward the Oltrarno tradition.

Local Recommendation
Luca shuts down the lights around 9:30 – 10 pm. Stop before dinner.

As La Fiaschetteria closes, consider Ristorante Al Tranvai, a small Oltrarno legend, located on Piazza Torquato Tasso just three blocks away.

Something for Nothing
Italian Language lessons; local Italians congregating at La Fiaschetteria from 5-9 pm plunge into conversation with limited English. An American guest can plunge right back with limited Italian. Add wine and everyone is fluent; no charge.

Maybe Next Year
Filli, blond, buxom and smiling stood alongside the counter as Luca poured the evening’s final glass of wine. It was 10 pm, La Fiaschetteria was closing.

(translated from Italian)
Filli said, “Luca and I will marry in May. We honeymoon in London.”
“But, Luca doesn’t speak English!” I said, “How will he manage in London?”
Filli replied, “Luca will learn English, so will I.”
Luca grinned as he wiped down his bar, ”Si, Tom, next year we will speak in English, Ciao, Tom. Ci vediamo”
“Ciao Luca, next year,” I said and waved goodbye to Luca and Filli.

Tags artesian, bar, bridge, drink, English, fiaschetteria, Florence, hidden, Italian, Italy, La Fiaschetteria, language, local, oltrarno, pitti, river, Tom Lane, undiscovered, wine

Europe Italy Siena; dine & dance

Siena, Italy: PRÈTTO; a local place to eat

Post author By Tom
Post date May 13, 2014
No Comments on Siena, Italy: PRÈTTO; a local place to eat

Pretto, Siena, Italy, Tuscany, restaurant, trattoria, prosciutto, locals, hidden, undiscovered, walk, wine, dining, grappa, cheap meals, pasta, salami, price

Siena, Italy
PRÈTTO; a local place to eat
Via dei Termine, email: tamara.pacini71@gmail.com

Places to eat in Italy have historically been tiered by description, loosely ranked from fine dining to in front of the stable; Ristorante, Trattoria, Osteria, Pizzeria, Locanda, Mescita, Bar, Salumeria, Convivio, Pasticerria, Birreria

The waiter at La Torre, a ristorante two steps off Piazza del Campo, the centerpiece of Siena, tossed the pasta on the table within two minutes of being seated.

“Not yet,” I said, “I haven’t decided.”
The waiter replied in Italian, “This is the way we’ve done it for 60 years.”
Change of plan, time to head down the block.

Earlier in the day, Easter Saturday afternoon, PRÈTTO, a hole-in-the-wall prosciutteria, had their door open. Danielle, waived an invite, delivered a carafe of PRÈTTO’s house white wine while assessing life in Siena. She was from Florence. The Sienese and Florentines have a history.

Now it was 9 pm, Easter Saturday evening; the door was still open and Pretto was buzzing.

“Ciao, Welcome back,” Daniele called from behind the glass food case, “Accomodarsi; take a seat.” She pointed at a table just vacated. Cured prosciutto hanging from the beams, salame being sliced, ragu heating – perfect. The aging furniture is beyond damage, having previously served at an Irish Pub.

Why this place appeals to me
PRÈTTO is either a Prosciutteria, a Mescita (a tap room) or a Convivio (a banquet hall); depends on what wall you read.

Emmanuelle and his wife Tamara own PRÈTTO. Emanuele explained, “Pretto, in Italian, can mean priest. But in Tuscan dialect, pretto means pure; faithful to the origins, food without chemicals. It was my grandfather’s nickname. He was PRÈTTO.”

Emanuele continued, “Pure like our Sangiovese vino, the vino we offer here at PRÈTTO, our house wine,“ he said. “My neighbor, 83 years old, he was a friend of my grandfather, he still watches over as the wine is made. Makes sure it is pretto, pure.”

Each day PRÈTTO posts a hand-written menu just inside the door. Food choices are few, everything local. Focus is on the meats; salame, prosciutto, heaping platters (affattati) carved in sight and served on wood planks accompanied by Tuscan cheese. Four choices of homemade pasta are offered each evening.

Emanuele returned, “My grandfather wrote poetry. He inspired me when I was young to try new adventures. Here is one of his poems.” The first two lines read

There is another path, and soon I’ll set off
Opportunity lies ahead but, I must choose the route.

How Far Down the Block? [mappress mapid=”9″]

Siena evolved on the top of three ridges leading to the center, Piazza del Campo. Each of the three ridges is served by a main thoroughfare. Every day throngs walk the three routes, into and out of, Siena. Via Banchi di Sopra is the north route, leading to Piaza del Campo from the train station and the bus station. PRÈTTO lies east and downhill, one block from Via Banchi di Sopra.

Siena, hidden restaurants, Tuscan dining, local dining — Front room at Pretto

To reach PRÈTTO, visit Nannini at Via Banche di Sopra 24, exiting Nannini’s front door, go straight (east), down the alley called Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio, one block. Turn left on Via dei Termine – you have arrived.

Why you might be nearby?
a) You’ve had it with the pigeons on Piazza del Campo and got caught in exodus on Via Banche di Sopra, b) Your tour guide is explaining the significance of Piazza Independenza, just 100 meters from PRÈTTO. When the group moves on to Piazza del Campo, lag in the rear and escape to Prètto.

Lesser Known Facts
Emanuale and his wife Tamara formerly operated an Irish Pub in Siena. PRÈTTO just opened April 12, 2014.

There is an Italian gelato chain Pretto; and it’s pretty good. It is not related to PRÈTTO Prosciutteria in Siena.

Local Recommendation
Choose the house wine (vino della casa). After dinner sample Siena’s ricciarelli cookies, or try Florence’s cantucci and dip it in Vin Santo, a sweet wine. Grappa to close the evening.

Something for Nothing
The cafes and lights of Piazza del Campo, host of the twice annual Palio di Siena, the horse race by the 17 neighborhoods of Siena, are only a 200 meter stroll from the entrance of Pretto.

In his poem, Emanuele’s grandfather continued to search for opportunity, he ends;

After a small drop of wine, as my journey resumed,
What I sought in my travel, awaited at home.

PRÈTTO is a place where you feel comfortable.

Tags cheap meals, dining, grappa, hidden, Italy, locals, pasta, Pretto, price, prosciutto, restaurant, salami, Siena, Tom Lane, trattoria, Tuscany, undiscovered, walk, wine

Cortez/Anna Maria; Annie's Bait Shop Florida

Cortez, Florida: ANNIE’S BAIT & TACKLE; Minnows, food, Heineken & cigars

Post author By Tom
Post date March 10, 2014
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Annie’s, Bradenton, Florida, bait, intercoastal, cigars, Grouper, Cortez, dockside, on the water, Anna Maria Island, Bradenton Beach, cold beer, locals, cheap meals, undiscovered, hidden, jogging, running, restaurant, bar, cheap meals, beer, price

Annie’s Bait & Tackle, Cortez, Florida (Bradenton Beach); An inter-coastal bait shop offering Heineken & cigars.

Why this place appeals to me

Annie’s explains their dining as EXTREMELY CASUAL – it is.

“What time do you open shop?” I asked Bruce Shearer, owner of Annie’s Bait Shop for the past 18 years.

“6 am, used to open at 5:30, but no reason any more, not busy in the morning,” Bruce said.

“How come you’re not busy at 6 am, that’s when fishermen like to head out?”

“They died,” the owner of Annie’s Bait Shop said.

“The fish died out,” I asked.

“No, the fishermen,” Bruce explains. “The old guys, down from Michigan, used to charter a boat for the entire season, one day a week, all winter December through April. Now, an occasional old guy brings his grandson by once a year to show him what a rod and reel looks like.”

Florida, bait, intercoastal, cigars, Grouper, Cortez, dockside, on the water, Anna Maria Island, Bradenton Beach, cold beer, locals, cheap meals, undiscovered, hidden, jogging, running, restaurant, bar, cheap meals, beer, price — Annie’s sign from out front

Annie’s Bait & Tackle is local, but with a surprising touch of class.

Nancy pulled a cool Heineken from the cooler as I selected a Macanudo cigar from the humidor atop the bait counter.

“Need a cutter?” she asked.

Nice touch; a $7 cigar does not offend my yearning to go local.

How Far Down the Block? From McKechnie Field spring training home field for the Pittsburgh Pirates it’s a nine mile drive.

From mid-crossing on the Sunshine Bridge spanning the entrance of Tampa Bay it is 37 miles to Annie’s Bait & Tackle.[mappress mapid=”8″]

Why you might be nearby? Social demands on Longboat Key have you seeking somewhere local to sip on a cold beer. Grab the tender from somebody’s yacht and zip north to the Cortez Road Bridge, following the channel into Annie’s immediately northeast of the bridge.

Lesser Known Facts Bruce Shearer once sold 15,000 bait shrimp daily to the fishermen pushing off from Cortez into the Gulf of Mexico. Fishing in 2014 isn’t the same as the 1980’s, Bruce moved with the money. Annie’s Bait Shop now serves cold Heineken with their signature Grouper Sandwich on the ten bar stools, four indoor tables or dockside on their … well, it’s just a dock..

Bruce, a refugee from Michigan – now proprietor of Annie’s Bait & Tackle, headed south in the late 1970’s with a stash of $1,800. He stands the afternoon watch at Annie’s these days

Local Recommendation

“What’s the specialty?” I asked.

Nancy, who came down from Cincinnati, was on duty at Annie’s. She said, “The Grouper Sandwich, 100%.”

Nancy was right.

Something for Nothing Park your car, lace up your running/walking shoes and head over the bridge towards Anna Maria Island. Round trip from Annie’s n the east side to the base of the bridge on the West side and back is 1.5 miles. Continue on the Gulf, extend your exercise routine and return to Annie’s thirsty.

Tags Anna Maria Island, Annie’s, bait, bar, beer, Bradenton, Bradenton Beach, cheap meals, cigars, cold beer, Cortez, dockside, Florida, Grouper, hidden, intercoastal, jogging, locals, on the water, price, restaurant, running, Tom Lane, undiscovered

Nelson; THE SAILS, boutique hotel New Zealand

Nelson, New Zealand: The Sails; a boutique hotel

Post author By Tom
Post date February 20, 2014
No Comments on Nelson, New Zealand: The Sails; a boutique hotel

Nelson, New Zealand

The Sails; a boutique hotel

The Sails Nelson, NZ — Sunrise at The Sails

Why this place appeals to me: The owner/operators Max and his wife Robyn are hands on; chatting as they fold towels inside the overhead door of The Sails laundry facility. Max and Robyn live on-site. The Sails is somewhat unknown as it opened new in Dec. 2012. The Sails sparkles.

Each room has full kitchen amenities, superb coffee service, full glassware and silverware, a small deck and a glass and chrome bathroom. 65 channels are provided on an LCD TV. Wi-Fi is complimentary. Max enthusiastically acts as de facto concierge at The Sails; advising on events, dining and drinks.

The Sails is a bit of a splurge at NZ $160 for thrifty travelers, but worth the price.

The Sails Cocktail hour — Cocktail Hour at The Sails

How Far Down the Block? Six blocks from the bus station on Bridge Street in the center of Nelson; your likely arrival point as there is no train service in/out of Nelson. From the bus station it is a 100 meter, half-block walk to Trafalgar Street, lined with a choice of pubs and restaurants. Turn the corner north and walk five blocks to The Sails.

Why you might be nearby? A) You fell into the gravitational pull of the Marlborough vineyards, B) You were cold and Nelson is reported to have consistently pleasant weather.

Two of New Zealand’s top offerings are featured in Nelson; cycling and brew pubs. And they compliment each other. Confer with the locals in choosing a ride, make sure it passes by, then ends with a proper pub. Paved bike trails run along the ocean, up the rivers leading into Nelson and into the low mountains surrounding Nelson.

From The Sails it is a quick, uncluttered ride to join the cycle trails. [mappress mapid=”5″]

Lesser Known Facts: Max worked for IBM, based in Connecticut, USA for fourteen years. Max got his start in hospitality developing pubs and restaurants; selling when the establishments achieved success. He bought the site for The Sails and oversaw construction of the hotel.

Local Recommendation: The Saturday morning market in downtown Nelson.

If you turn the wrong way where Bridge Street meets Trafalgar after leaving the bus station, you quickly arrive at The Vic, Mac’s Brewpub on Trafalgar Square in Nelson. Stop for a beer.

When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown. For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded. The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement. Max was awarded a cap for his exceptional facility and guest service.

Something for Nothing The Sails provides two bikes on site for use by their guests. Not the same quality as the cycle rental options nearby, yet perfect for a 90 minute exploration of Nelson. The Sails offers laundry service for guests for $8.00 a load; an appreciated touch for frugal packers.

Tags bike trail, boutique, cycle, cycling, hidden, hotel, kitchen, laundry service, locals, Nelson, New Zealand, price, Sails, Tom Lane, undiscovered, walking, wine

Martinborough, restaurant COOL CHANGE New Zealand

Martinborough, NZ: COOL CHANGE; a restaurant & bar in wine country

Post author By Tom
Post date February 16, 2014
No Comments on Martinborough, NZ: COOL CHANGE; a restaurant & bar in wine country

Cool Change; a restaurant & bar in Martinborough, New Zealand, 30 minutes south from Highway 2, New Zealand’s Wine Trail

What appeals: On Tuesday, a lot of eating and drinking places in Martinborough close. It was Tuesday and Cool Change would be open that night … and they had a bar. Too few upscale NZ eating establishments have a bar; drinks are served at the table.

Jimmy, Cool Change’s afternoon barkeep, touted the special to be served later Tuesday evening; the platter of roast lamb served with Martinborough veggies and NZ potatoes. Two migrants from Minnesota sipped late afternoon beer at Cool Change’s bar. He said they hadn’t been back since they left seven years ago. She said they didn’t plan to ever go back.

Tirohana Estate; a boutique vineyard less than a kilometer from Memorial Square in Martinborough, offered white linen, their own wines, veggies from their garden and the promise of top-notch service. Tirohana Vineyard should have been an easy choice, but Cool Change was … more local.

Today's Special, Cool Change, Martinborough, NZ — Tuesday’s Doings

And Jimmy had already poured me a NZ pale ale.

How Far Down the Block?

If you’re driving Highway 2, the NZ Wine Trail, Martinborough is a 17 kilometer jog south – a pretty drive. Places never mentioned in travel books intrigue me. Cool Change, located across the Kitchener Street from the well publicized Martinborough Hotel, was below guide book radar.

[mappress mapid=”4″]

Why you might be nearby?

You have been tasting at the vineyards surrounding Martinborough. Quality vineyards stretch into town, their entrance a short walk from Memorial Square.

Lesser Known Facts

The name Cool Change was inspired by a change from city life and influenced by the Little River Band’s tune.

Local Recommendation

Returning at 9 pm, Cool Change was booming. Platters of lamb came forth from the kitchen; every bar stool had been claimed.

Jimmy the barkeep morphed into the evening Maître D’, yet was easy to locate. His evening dress was the same as his 4 pm look; Venice Beach surfer dude circa 1968 featuring a loose white tee shirt, over-the-neck dirty blond hair and a three day growth. Diners in Cool Change’s dining room signaled for Jimmy’s attention.

My roast lamb platter had been reserved that afternoon. Jimmy waved, confirming my lamb platter and pointing at an open table.

At 10:30 pm the dining room crowd had thinned, the bar in Cool Change still hummed. A tri-athlete and a birthday guy sat side-by-side encouraging each other to drink beer. Jimmy returned to the bar, he set a shot of Jameson Irish, neat, in front of me and said it was on the house.

Cool Change, TC cap — Service Award
Traverse City Cap

When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown. For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded. The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement. Jimmy, the barkeep/Maître D was gracious during the brief award ceremony. He set the cap atop several bottles behind his bar.

Something for Another Day

At 7 am, Wednesday morning not a car drove down Puruatanga Road as I jogged past Tirohana Estate. How many diners did they serve last night? Next trip, maybe.

I turned the corner and trotted into Martinborough, past Cool Change.

Cool Change, Martinborough, New Zealand (2) — Cool Change for the Lamb Platter

Tags bar, beer, bike, booze, Cool Change, Greytown, hidden, highway 2, jog, lamb, locals, Martinborough, Masterton, New Zealand, restaurant, Tom Lane, undiscovered, vineyard, walk, wine, wine country, wine trail

New Zealand Russell; old hotel, older drinking club

Russell, New Zealand: RUSSELL BOATING CLUB; a drinking place from another time

Post author By Tom
Post date February 13, 2014
No Comments on Russell, New Zealand: RUSSELL BOATING CLUB; a drinking place from another time

Russell Boating Club; a drinking place from another time located in Russell, New Zealand, Matauwhi Bay, the Bay of Islands

What Appeals? The deck hangs over the bay, the bar offers a decent choice of booze and a satisfying selection of New Zealand beer. But, at the Russell Boating Club, it’s the characters.

Russell Boating Club, Drinking restricted — Drinking Restricted Rule not enforced

When locals tell a good story, the main characters often do the telling. Sometimes in a really local place, you step inside their community.

In France refugees from the 1960’s are known as soixante neuf’s – sixty-niners. One foot stuck in 1969, the rest of their self dealing with 2014. These entertaining peeps are defined by what they are not; they are not fat, not well groomed, not impressed by wealth and not subject to silly drug laws. They are the same entertaining folks we hung with in college … 69’ers in the Bay of Islands had found each other at the RBC at 5 pm on January 23, 2014.

On the deck outside the Russell Boating Club a slender man with gray hair, trimmed brush cut style, aged skin and an ear-ring sits on the bench of a picnic table. He leads the dialogue with eight of his sailor/drinkers – all wearing colorless jackets and faded Bermudas. Two beers rest in front of the speaker; one finished, the other half drained. This is their community.

How Far Down the Block? Four blocks from the base of the pier in Russell, New Zealand. The pier is Russell’s hub. Follow Matauwhi Road out of town, when the road turns left, continue straight on.

Why you might be nearby? A) You are staying at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel and you want to go local. B) While sailing New Zealand’s Bay of Islands a cyclone strikes; you need the protection of a Hurricane Hole. Matauwhi Bay is your refuge.

Russell Boating Club, Dinghy Dock — Dinghy dock
Russell Boat Club

Lesser Known Facts: The sole display of social stratification within the RBC community is revealed at the dinghy dock. Twenty dinghies are tied up at the Russell Boating Club; ten dinghies are powered by a small outboard motor, the other ten rowed in. Those rowing have to time their return trip based on the in/out flow of the 11 foot tide.

Standing at the bar, Ida Bircher, bartender, responded to her customer, “If you want help, don’t ask my husband.” Community advice.

Ida, an Irish rover, sailed into Matauwhi Bay and the Russell Boating Club two years ago from Fort Lauderdale by way of Australia. Ida controls how quickly beer is served. When asked to repeat her name, she said, “Ida. Like in Ida good time.”

Local Recommendation Meals are served at the RBC on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. The price is a fraction of nearby alternatives.

A dinghy carrying eight was being rowed towards the RBC dinghy dock; the boat rode low in the water. As the overloaded dinghy approached a hunched senior sailor, doing the South Pacific on a 24-foot vessel, scurried to help. After a successful disembarkation, he passed by and whispered, “I’d rather assist on the dinghy dock than have to jump in.” Community wisdom.

Something for Nothing: A) Feel young again at the Russell Boating Club without the cost of drugs. On this Wednesday eve in January 2014, the youngest person in the RBC was 51 years. B) Parking is free; either at the dinghy dock or in the lot for autos.

Tags bar, beer, boat, boating, booze, cheap meals, club, deck, dinghy, dock, dockside, drink, drugs, hidden, local, New Zealand, on the water, pier, restaurant, Russell, sailboat, Tom Lane, undiscovered, walk

Michigan Sawyer; a microbrewery

Sawyer, Michigan: GREENBUSH BREWERY; a stop off I-94

Post author By Tom
Post date January 15, 2014
No Comments on Sawyer, Michigan: GREENBUSH BREWERY; a stop off I-94

How Far Down the Block?

The Tap Room at Greenbush Brewery is a half mile west of Exit 12 on Interstate I-94, just across the rail tracks in downtown Sawyer, Michigan. A two-minute zig. The Tap Room is located right next to the railroad crossing on Sawyer Road, the main street.

[mappress mapid=”1″]

Why you might be nearby

You are driving between metro Chicago (80 miles) and Northern Michigan (240 miles to Traverse City, Michigan).
You’re gambling at the Four Winds Casino (13 miles) and only have $10 remaining.
You’re at the Warren Dunes State Park (2.4 miles) and it’s raining.

Lesser Known Facts

Corvette Central, restoration parts maker, was founded in Sawyer, Michigan. Greenbush stores its ales across the street from the Tap Room in a former Corvette Central site. Fork lift trucks porter barrels of beer across Sawyer Road from the storage house to the Tap Room.

Silas Sawyer built a saw mill in 1854, giving his name to the town. His product was transported to the Chicago market from Greenbush pier, just a few miles away on the Lake Michigan shore.

Founder Justin Heckathorn, FOO (Financial Operations Officer) is a refugee from banking, and a former colleague of mine.

Founder Scott Sullivan, HMFIC (Head Man For Information Control), apprenticed as a furniture maker, website developer and home brewer.

Recommendation

Deep in the warehouse lay several barrels of Cream Stout aging in wooden barrels that once ripened Rye Whiskey. This Greenbush ale, called Delusion, is tapped annually. Delusion might be sipped as an “after dinner” beer. The Rye taste of the smooth dark stout suggests a cigar and political conversation.

Something for Nothing

Tasting sessions, often gratis, are conducted throughout the Midwest. Here is the current schedule; verify your age, then click events.

Tags bar, beer, brewery, casino, cheap meals, corvette, Greenbush, hidden, locals, Michigan, microbrewery, price, restaurant, Sawyer, Tom Lane