What appeals: On Tuesday, a lot of eating and drinking places in Martinborough close. It was Tuesday and Cool Change would be open that night … and they had a bar. Too few upscale NZ eating establishments have a bar; drinks are served at the table.
Jimmy, Cool Change’s afternoon barkeep, touted the special to be served later Tuesday evening; the platter of roast lamb served with Martinborough veggies and NZ potatoes. Two migrants from Minnesota sipped late afternoon beer at Cool Change’s bar. He said they hadn’t been back since they left seven years ago. She said they didn’t plan to ever go back.
Tirohana Estate; a boutique vineyard less than a kilometer from Memorial Square in Martinborough, offered white linen, their own wines, veggies from their garden and the promise of top-notch service. Tirohana Vineyard should have been an easy choice, but Cool Change was … more local.
And Jimmy had already poured me a NZ pale ale.
How Far Down the Block?
If you’re driving Highway 2, the NZ Wine Trail, Martinborough is a 17 kilometer jog south – a pretty drive. Places never mentioned in travel books intrigue me. Cool Change, located across the Kitchener Street from the well publicized Martinborough Hotel, was below guide book radar.
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Why you might be nearby?
You have been tasting at the vineyards surrounding Martinborough. Quality vineyards stretch into town, their entrance a short walk from Memorial Square.
Lesser Known Facts
The name Cool Change was inspired by a change from city life and influenced by the Little River Band’s tune.
Local Recommendation
Returning at 9 pm, Cool Change was booming. Platters of lamb came forth from the kitchen; every bar stool had been claimed.
Jimmy the barkeep morphed into the evening Maître D’, yet was easy to locate. His evening dress was the same as his 4 pm look; Venice Beach surfer dude circa 1968 featuring a loose white tee shirt, over-the-neck dirty blond hair and a three day growth. Diners in Cool Change’s dining room signaled for Jimmy’s attention.
My roast lamb platter had been reserved that afternoon. Jimmy waved, confirming my lamb platter and pointing at an open table.
At 10:30 pm the dining room crowd had thinned, the bar in Cool Change still hummed. A tri-athlete and a birthday guy sat side-by-side encouraging each other to drink beer. Jimmy returned to the bar, he set a shot of Jameson Irish, neat, in front of me and said it was on the house.
Traverse City Cap
When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown. For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded. The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement. Jimmy, the barkeep/Maître D was gracious during the brief award ceremony. He set the cap atop several bottles behind his bar.
Something for Another Day
At 7 am, Wednesday morning not a car drove down Puruatanga Road as I jogged past Tirohana Estate. How many diners did they serve last night? Next trip, maybe.
I turned the corner and trotted into Martinborough, past Cool Change.
