Siena, Italy
PRÈTTO; a local place to eat
Via dei Termine, email: tamara.pacini71@gmail.com
Places to eat in Italy have historically been tiered by description, loosely ranked from fine dining to in front of the stable; Ristorante, Trattoria, Osteria, Pizzeria, Locanda, Mescita, Bar, Salumeria, Convivio, Pasticerria, Birreria
The waiter at La Torre, a ristorante two steps off Piazza del Campo, the centerpiece of Siena, tossed the pasta on the table within two minutes of being seated.
“Not yet,” I said, “I haven’t decided.”
The waiter replied in Italian, “This is the way we’ve done it for 60 years.”
Change of plan, time to head down the block.
Earlier in the day, Easter Saturday afternoon, PRÈTTO, a hole-in-the-wall prosciutteria, had their door open. Danielle, waived an invite, delivered a carafe of PRÈTTO’s house white wine while assessing life in Siena. She was from Florence. The Sienese and Florentines have a history.
Now it was 9 pm, Easter Saturday evening; the door was still open and Pretto was buzzing.
“Ciao, Welcome back,” Daniele called from behind the glass food case, “Accomodarsi; take a seat.” She pointed at a table just vacated. Cured prosciutto hanging from the beams, salame being sliced, ragu heating – perfect. The aging furniture is beyond damage, having previously served at an Irish Pub.
Why this place appeals to me
PRÈTTO is either a Prosciutteria, a Mescita (a tap room) or a Convivio (a banquet hall); depends on what wall you read.
Emmanuelle and his wife Tamara own PRÈTTO. Emanuele explained, “Pretto, in Italian, can mean priest. But in Tuscan dialect, pretto means pure; faithful to the origins, food without chemicals. It was my grandfather’s nickname. He was PRÈTTO.”
Emanuele continued, “Pure like our Sangiovese vino, the vino we offer here at PRÈTTO, our house wine,“ he said. “My neighbor, 83 years old, he was a friend of my grandfather, he still watches over as the wine is made. Makes sure it is pretto, pure.”
Each day PRÈTTO posts a hand-written menu just inside the door. Food choices are few, everything local. Focus is on the meats; salame, prosciutto, heaping platters (affattati) carved in sight and served on wood planks accompanied by Tuscan cheese. Four choices of homemade pasta are offered each evening.
Emanuele returned, “My grandfather wrote poetry. He inspired me when I was young to try new adventures. Here is one of his poems.” The first two lines read
There is another path, and soon I’ll set off
Opportunity lies ahead but, I must choose the route.
How Far Down the Block? [mappress mapid=”9″]
Siena evolved on the top of three ridges leading to the center, Piazza del Campo. Each of the three ridges is served by a main thoroughfare. Every day throngs walk the three routes, into and out of, Siena. Via Banchi di Sopra is the north route, leading to Piaza del Campo from the train station and the bus station. PRÈTTO lies east and downhill, one block from Via Banchi di Sopra.
To reach PRÈTTO, visit Nannini at Via Banche di Sopra 24, exiting Nannini’s front door, go straight (east), down the alley called Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio, one block. Turn left on Via dei Termine – you have arrived.
Why you might be nearby?
a) You’ve had it with the pigeons on Piazza del Campo and got caught in exodus on Via Banche di Sopra, b) Your tour guide is explaining the significance of Piazza Independenza, just 100 meters from PRÈTTO. When the group moves on to Piazza del Campo, lag in the rear and escape to Prètto.
Lesser Known Facts
Emanuale and his wife Tamara formerly operated an Irish Pub in Siena. PRÈTTO just opened April 12, 2014.
There is an Italian gelato chain Pretto; and it’s pretty good. It is not related to PRÈTTO Prosciutteria in Siena.
Local Recommendation
Choose the house wine (vino della casa). After dinner sample Siena’s ricciarelli cookies, or try Florence’s cantucci and dip it in Vin Santo, a sweet wine. Grappa to close the evening.
Something for Nothing
The cafes and lights of Piazza del Campo, host of the twice annual Palio di Siena, the horse race by the 17 neighborhoods of Siena, are only a 200 meter stroll from the entrance of Pretto.
In his poem, Emanuele’s grandfather continued to search for opportunity, he ends;
After a small drop of wine, as my journey resumed,
What I sought in my travel, awaited at home.
PRÈTTO is a place where you feel comfortable.