Siena, Italy: I Terzi, a local enoteca
Via dei Termini 7, Siena, Italy
An enoteca features wine. Many Italian enotecas have introduced food to accompany their wine. Often the wine touted by the enoteca has been pressed in the surrounding hills; and the accompanying food harvested from the same local region.
Outside I Terzi at 8:15 pm one guy sat at the deserted table on the terrace; the temperature was 50 degrees. His wife and two teenage daughters were inspecting the menu posted outside the entrance. He called,
“Have you been to this place before?” It was almost dark, he wore a ski parka.
“No,” I said, “but those I trust recommend I Terzi over some of the more highly touted ristorante that surround Piazza del Campo and the Duomo.”
“OK, sounds like an endorsement.” Charles, an attorney from NY City gathered his clan, “We’ve only got one night in Siena,” he said as they entered I Terzi.
Why this place appeals to me
Michele, one of two partners in I Terzi, hails from Bari, in the south of Italy on the Adriatic coast. Michele’s grey hair flowed over his ears. He and his partner, Sergio, launched the enoteca in 1995; they added food in 2001. The marble counter at the entrance serves as both the welcome/reservation counter and as the carving board for the huge Bistecca Fiorentina.
Michele and his partner, Sergio, seem to know each guest arriving at I Terzi. Michele recognized me from my earlier visit to reserve a seat. As Michele conversed at a nearby table, he caught me eavesdropping. He turned to me,
“We attended university together,” he said.
The wife of Michele’s longtime friend tossed me the look (lo sguardo) indicating she had been the audience for their remembrances before.
How Far Down the Block?
Via Banche di Sopra is the north route, leading to Piazza del Campo from the train station and the bus station. I Terzi lies east and downhill, one block from Via Banchi di Sopra. [mappress mapid=”10″]
To reach I Terzi visit Nannini at Via Banchi di Sopra 24, departing the front door go straight(east), one block, down the alley Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio, turn left on Via dei Termine – you have arrived.
Why you might be nearby?
Siena evolved from the convergence of three ridges leading to the city center; the Piazza del Campo. I Terzi refers to the three ridges that carve Siena into thirds. Each of the three ridges is served by a main thoroughfare. From the north, visitors arriving by bus and train walk along Via Banchi di Sopra towards the center of Siena. Eventually you’ll find yourself amongst these throngs tramping towards the Piazza del Campo.
Lesser Known Facts
I Terzi’s building once known as Torre Rossa, housed Siena’s Ballanti family.
Local Recommendation
I Terzi revises their menu every 15 days. Each day the enoteca offers five starters (antipasti), five first courses (primi) and five main courses (Secondi). Black Cabbage soup (cavalo nero) is a specialty.
Siena lies within Tuscany, and the wine choices cover some of Italy’s best. Chianti wine, produced in the region immediately north of Siena, is frequently dismissed by Americans.
The Chianti is defined by Florence on the north and Siena on the south. Vino della casa, the house wine, is usually Chianti in Siena. It is local, it is pure; relatively free of preservatives, and the first sip is hard to believe. Local fattoria, a country wine merchant, distinguish the fermentation/aging processes as Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Reserva.
The house wine usually has a story; a relative from the country who produces the wine that arrives in a large glass flask (fiascha) ready for delivery directly to your table. The second time you order wine at I Terzi, ask Michele or Sergio to guide you through their selection of 1800 bottles.
Something for Nothing
Take an after dinner stroll through the cafes and lights of Piazza del Campo, host of the twice annual Palio di Siena; a horse race contested by the 17 neighborhoods (contrada) of Siena. Piazza del Campo is only 200 meters from the entrance of I Terzi.
