Tag: wine

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Europe Florence; Oltrarno enoteca favorites Italy

Florence, Italy: Enoteca Pitti Gola; food and wine in the Oltrarno

Pitti, gola, enoteca, florence, italy, oltrarno, wine, local, hidden, ponte, vecchio, dine, food, meals, tom lane, Italian, tasting
View of Pitti Palace from the terrace of Enoteca Pitti Gola

Florence, Italy
Enoteca Pitti Gola, food and wine in the Oltrarno
Piazza de Pitti 16

“Hey, you’re back,” Zeno called from behind his bar as I entered Pitti Gola.
“Back for a glass of Italian wine,”  I said, “You choose.”
“Ciao, you’re back,” Edoardo, Zeno’s older brother, popped up the stairway leading from the cellar of Pitti Gola.
“You need some of my money,”  I said, “I read the Italian economy struggles.”
Edoardo shrugged, “Maybe some places in Italy are struggling, we are doing OK.”

Why this place appeals to me.
On 2008 New Year’s Eve Edoardo, Manuele and Zeno purchased the Enoteca. In February 2009 I spent three weeks in Florence. The guys were all single then, they are all married now. Edoardo and Zeno are brothers, Manuele is a longtime friend.

The three owners are serious about their wine. I’m half-serious; serious about sipping, preferring wines at half price.

Pitti Gola is not Off The Map. This enoteca has been discovered. The ambience is low key; casual wear works. The wine is delivered in high style. Describe to the guys what you like to sip and let them choose. They pour the wine, describe the grape, the location of the vineyard and what’s happening in Italy.

Pitti, gola, enoteca, florence, italy, oltrarno, wine, local, hidden, ponte, vecchio, dine, food, meals, tom lane, Italian, tasting
The Pitti Gola crew, click here

Pitti Gola serves Tuscan bites and plates. The outdoor patio seats 8-10, inside is seating for 6-8. The small cellar can accommodate a party of 10-12. Zeno loves to talk wine, when he leads dinner conversation in the cellar, time flies.

How Far Down the Block?
Cross the Ponte Vecchio on foot, south into the Oltrarno; leaving the throngs of tourists behind you. It is a direct 250 meter stroll directly south, towards the Pitti Palace. The shops along Via De Gucciardini will thrill those who believe Black Friday is their day. [mappress mapid=”12″]

Bus D, a Florence short bus, stops directly in front of Pitti Palace, and Pitti Gola. Bus D runs from the Santa Maria Novella train station (the main station) along the entire Oltrarno, from Ponte Vespucci to a terminus at Piazza Ravenna.

Why you might be nearby?
Theorem #1 – You’re touring the Vasari Corridor, yawning, looking out an ancient porthole and realize you’ve crossed the Arno and are now free to roam about. Look for a secret escape; Dan Brown in his novel, Dante’s Inferno, described where the hidden escape from the Pitti Palace is located. Brown didn’t reference it, but by my calculations the escape is within 75 meters of Pitti Gola’s wine sanctuary.

Theorem #2 – Your in line at the Pitti Palace; an hour from gaining entrance. Across the street, under the street side awnings of a small enoteca, people are chattering, laughing. You make a choice; wine trumps art.

Lesser Known Facts
Once across the Ponte Vecchio and into the Oltrarno, the two block walk south to Pitti Gola on Via De Gucciardini is a fascinating shopping street. High quality wares, presented with an absence of name brands and absence of name brand prices. If your partner is chirping about shopping time sacrificed while you pursue an afternoon glass of Italian wine, common ground can be achieved in this neighborhood.

Pitti, gola, enoteca, florence, italy, oltrarno, wine, local, hidden, ponte, vecchio, dine, food, meals, tom lane, Italian, tasting
Soil from the vineyard

Within Enoteca Pitti Gola, wine fills the walls. Alongside the wine bottles, small glass vessels hold soil samples from the Tuscan vineyards where the grapes grow. Down the block from Enoteca Pitti Gola, the guys maintain a wine cellar. Zeno ran to his wine cellar to retrieve a special wine.

“You need more space,” I said.
Zeno replied, “I share my space with the wine, the wine is what is important.”

Local Recommendation
The Boboli Gardens, behind the Pitti Palace, directly across the street from Pitti Palace, might be the nicest outdoor meander in Florence.

Pitti, gola, enoteca, florence, italy, oltrarno, wine, local, hidden, ponte, vecchio, dine, food, meals, tom lane, Italian, tasting
Zeno behind the bar at Enoteca Pitti Gola

Something for Nothing
Once inside Boboli Gardens, access the adjacent Bardini Gardens from an unadvertised gate in the high NE Boboli corner. Boboli has the best sculpture and foliage, Bardini has spectacular views over Florence. Take Dante’s Inferno and read the passage where Robert Langdon and Sienna Brooks scale the Boboli walls at night, using the garden to avoid their pursuers

Categories
Europe Florence; Oltrarno enoteca favorites Italy

Florence, Italy: La Fiaschetteria; a local wine sipping place

La Fiaschetteria, Florence, Italy, oltrarno, fiaschetteria, drink, local, hidden, undiscovered, bar, tom lane, river, Italian, artesian, wine, bridge, pitti, language, English

Florence, Italy
La Fiaschetteria: a local wine sipping place
Via de Serragli 47r, across the Arno River, the Oltrarno

After dark in April 2013, in the Oltrarno section of Florence, Italy, four blocks south of the Arno River, I’m saying goodbye at La Fiaschetteria.

(Translated from Italian)
“Arrivaderci Luca, see you next year. Each April, for five years, I drink your wine here at Fiaschetteria. We speak in Italian only. You say no English is spoken at La Fiaschetteria. Study while I’m gone. Next April we’ll speak English. Ciao Luca.” The next day I would travel home to Michigan.

One year later, April 2014, at the front entrance of La Fiaschetteria in the Oltrarno of Florence.

(Translated from Italian)
“Ciao Luca, it’s me, Tom. It’s been a year, I return to speak English with you my old friend.”
In English, I continue, “Have you been studying English the past year?”
Luca says in Italian, “No Tom, non ho studiato Inglese. Parliamo quest’anno in Italiano.”

The Oltrarno of Florence for centuries has been home to the artesians of Tuscany; cobblers, frame-makers, artists, jewelry-makers, lace-makers and musicians.

La Fiaschetteria, Florence, Italy, oltrarno, fiaschetteria, drink, local, hidden, undiscovered, bar, tom lane, river, Italian, artesian, wine, bridge, pitti, language, English
La Fiaschetteria is well stocked

Craftsmen and bohemians are served by several trattorias, bars, and just one fiaschetteria. Local residents arrive at La Fiaschetteria each evening to chat and fill their empty wine bottles.

Why this place appeals to me
“At La Fiaschetteria we only speak Italian,” Luca has been telling me for six years. His small fiaschetteria holds only 8-10 people inside. Luca’s patrons flow out the door and into Via de Serragli. There are no other Americans to be found amongst the 7 pm crowd. Luca’s customers, locals who live in the Oltrarno, across the Arno River, hear Luca proclaim that again this year we will be speaking in Italian, seize the opportunity to improve their English. Assisted by wine, we begin to communicate.

La Fiaschetteria, Florence, Italy, oltrarno, fiaschetteria, drink, local, hidden, undiscovered, bar, tom lane, river, Italian, artesian, wine, bridge, pitti, language, English
Looking in from Via de’ Serragli

A woman enters La Fiaschetteria with an empty wine bottle, hands it to Luca and says, “Rosso di Montalcino; riempirlo e un bicchiere.” Luca pours her a glass of wine from the spigot, exchanges the glass for her bottle, places her empty bottle under the tap and fills it with red wine. Her bottle is quickly corked with a barely noticeable press hidden behind the counter. Luca returns her bottle, full of Tuscan red wine and says, “Tre euro.” Translation four dollars.

How Far Down the Block?
Cross the Arno River on the Ponte alla Carraia (the Carraia bridge) heading south, leaving the Duomo and Piazza Repubblica behind. Walk directly ahead (south) 400 meters. One block from the bridge the street becomes Via de Serragli. [mappress mapid=”11″]

Why you might be nearby?
a) You’re in line at the Pitti Palace facing a one-hour wait outside the main gate. It’s getting late in the afternoon. La Fiaschetteria is four blocks away, b) Your wife, tired from shopping, is napping. You’re not tired.

Lesser Known Facts
La Fiaschetteria came to life in 1947 from the ashes of World War II. Luca’s father, with a hand from his grandfather, began serving Florentines. In Florence’s Oltrarno a post war fiaschetteria provided bulk wine for local folks to carry home, a glass at the counter, a place to chatter, smoke and imagine a better world.

La Fiaschetteria, Florence, Italy, oltrarno, fiaschetteria, drink, local, hidden, undiscovered, bar, tom lane, river, Italian, artesian, wine, bridge, pitti, language, English
Only Italian spoken

The great Florence flood of 1966 damaged all Florence. Water stood knee-deep in La Fiaschetteria. After Luca’s father died, his mother, Vittoria, ran La Fiaschetteria. In 1985, Luca, then 27 took over. He expanded the Tuscan wine selection stocked by La Fiaschetteria, stabilized the small interior and carried forward the Oltrarno tradition.

Local Recommendation
Luca shuts down the lights around 9:30 – 10 pm. Stop before dinner.

As La Fiaschetteria closes, consider Ristorante Al Tranvai, a small Oltrarno legend, located on Piazza Torquato Tasso just three blocks away.

Something for Nothing
Italian Language lessons; local Italians congregating at La Fiaschetteria from 5-9 pm plunge into conversation with limited English. An American guest can plunge right back with limited Italian. Add wine and everyone is fluent; no charge.

Maybe Next Year
Filli, blond, buxom and smiling stood alongside the counter as Luca poured the evening’s final glass of wine. It was 10 pm, La Fiaschetteria was closing.

(translated from Italian)
Filli said, “Luca and I will marry in May. We honeymoon in London.”
“But, Luca doesn’t speak English!” I said, “How will he manage in London?”
Filli replied, “Luca will learn English, so will I.”
Luca grinned as he wiped down his bar, ”Si, Tom, next year we will speak in English, Ciao, Tom. Ci vediamo”
“Ciao Luca, next year,” I said and waved goodbye to Luca and Filli.

La Fiaschetteria, Florence, Italy, oltrarno, fiaschetteria, drink, local, hidden, undiscovered, bar, tom lane, river, Italian, artesian, wine, bridge, pitti, language, English
The crowd at La Fiaschetteria flows into Via de’ Serragli
Categories
Europe Italy Siena; dine & dance

Siena, Italy: PRÈTTO; a local place to eat

Pretto, Siena, Italy, Tuscany, restaurant, trattoria, prosciutto, locals, hidden, undiscovered, walk, wine, dining, grappa, cheap meals, pasta, salami, price

Siena, Italy
PRÈTTO; a local place to eat
Via dei Termine,                email:  tamara.pacini71@gmail.com

Places to eat in Italy have historically been tiered by description, loosely ranked from fine dining to in front of the stable; Ristorante, Trattoria, Osteria, Pizzeria, Locanda, Mescita, Bar, Salumeria, Convivio, Pasticerria, Birreria

The waiter at La Torre, a ristorante two steps off Piazza del Campo, the centerpiece of Siena, tossed the pasta on the table within two minutes of being seated.

“Not yet,” I said, “I haven’t decided.”
The waiter replied in Italian, “This is the way we’ve done it for 60 years.”
Change of plan, time to head down the block.

Earlier in the day, Easter Saturday afternoon, PRÈTTO, a hole-in-the-wall prosciutteria, had their door open. Danielle, waived an invite, delivered a carafe of PRÈTTO’s house white wine while assessing life in Siena. She was from Florence. The Sienese and Florentines have a history.

Pretto, Siena, Italy, Tuscany, restaurant, trattoria, prosciutto, locals, hidden, undiscovered, walk, wine, dining, grappa, cheap meals, pasta, salami, price, Tom LaneNow it was 9 pm, Easter Saturday evening; the door was still open and Pretto was buzzing.

Pretto, Siena, Italy, Tuscany, restaurant, trattoria, prosciutto, locals, hidden, undiscovered, walk, wine, dining, grappa, cheap meals, pasta, salami, price
Inside the entrance

“Ciao, Welcome back,” Daniele called from behind the glass food case, “Accomodarsi; take a seat.” She pointed at a table just vacated. Cured prosciutto hanging from the beams, salame being sliced, ragu heating – perfect. The aging furniture is beyond damage, having previously served at an Irish Pub.

Why this place appeals to me
PRÈTTO is either a Prosciutteria, a Mescita (a tap room) or a Convivio (a banquet hall); depends on what wall you read.

Emmanuelle and his wife Tamara own PRÈTTO. Emanuele explained, “Pretto, in Italian, can mean priest. But in Tuscan dialect, pretto means pure; faithful to the origins, food without chemicals. It was my grandfather’s nickname. He was PRÈTTO.”

Emanuele continued, “Pure like our Sangiovese vino, the vino we offer here at PRÈTTO, our house wine,“ he said. “My neighbor, 83 years old, he was a friend of my grandfather, he still watches over as the wine is made. Makes sure it is pretto, pure.”

Pretto, Siena, Italy, Tuscany, restaurant, trattoria, prosciutto, locals, hidden, undiscovered, walk, wine, dining, grappa, cheap meals, pasta, salami, price
Arriva Francesca

Each day PRÈTTO posts a hand-written menu just inside the door. Food choices are few, everything local. Focus is on the meats; salame, prosciutto, heaping platters (affattati) carved in sight and served on wood planks accompanied by Tuscan cheese. Four choices of homemade pasta are offered each evening.

Emanuele returned, “My grandfather wrote poetry. He inspired me when I was young to try new adventures. Here is one of his poems.” The first two lines read

                        There is another path, and soon I’ll set off
                        Opportunity lies ahead but, I must choose the route.

How Far Down the Block?                           [mappress mapid=”9″]

Siena evolved on the top of three ridges leading to the center, Piazza del Campo. Each of the three ridges is served by a main thoroughfare. Every day throngs walk the three routes, into and out of, Siena. Via Banchi di Sopra is the north route, leading to Piaza del Campo from the train station and the bus station. PRÈTTO lies east and downhill, one block from Via Banchi di Sopra.

Siena, hidden restaurants, Tuscan dining, local dining
Front room at Pretto

To reach PRÈTTO, visit Nannini at Via Banche di Sopra 24, exiting Nannini’s front door, go straight (east), down the alley called Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio, one block. Turn left on Via dei Termine – you have arrived.

Why you might be nearby?
a) You’ve had it with the pigeons on Piazza del Campo and got caught in exodus on Via Banche di Sopra, b) Your tour guide is explaining the significance of Piazza Independenza, just 100 meters from PRÈTTO. When the group moves on to Piazza del Campo, lag in the rear and escape to Prètto.

Lesser Known Facts
Emanuale and his wife Tamara formerly operated an Irish Pub in Siena. PRÈTTO just opened April 12, 2014.

There is an Italian gelato chain Pretto; and it’s pretty good. It is not related to PRÈTTO Prosciutteria in Siena.

Local Recommendation
Choose the house wine (vino della casa). After dinner sample Siena’s ricciarelli cookies, or try Florence’s cantucci and dip it in Vin Santo, a sweet wine. Grappa to close the evening.

Something for Nothing
The cafes and lights of Piazza del Campo, host of the twice annual Palio di Siena, the horse race by the 17 neighborhoods of Siena, are only a 200 meter stroll from the entrance of Pretto.

In his poem, Emanuele’s grandfather continued to search for opportunity, he ends;

                                    After a small drop of wine, as my journey resumed,
                                    What I sought in my travel, awaited at home.

PRÈTTO is a place where you feel comfortable.

Categories
Nelson; THE SAILS, boutique hotel New Zealand

Nelson, New Zealand: The Sails; a boutique hotel

Nelson, New Zealand

The Sails; a boutique hotel

The Sails Nelson, NZ
Sunrise at The Sails


Why this place appeals to me:     The owner/operators Max and his wife Robyn are hands on; chatting as they fold towels inside the overhead door of The Sails laundry facility.  Max and Robyn live on-site.  The Sails is somewhat unknown as it opened new in Dec. 2012.  The Sails sparkles.

Each room has full kitchen amenities, superb coffee service, full glassware and silverware, a small deck and a glass and chrome bathroom. 65 channels are provided on an LCD TV.  Wi-Fi is complimentary.  Max enthusiastically acts as de facto concierge at The Sails; advising on events, dining and drinks.

The Sails is a bit of a splurge at NZ $160 for thrifty travelers, but worth the price.

The Sails Cocktail hour
Cocktail Hour at The Sails

How Far Down the Block?     Six blocks from the bus station on Bridge Street in the center of Nelson; your likely arrival point as there is no train service in/out of Nelson.  From the bus station it is a 100 meter, half-block walk to Trafalgar Street, lined with a choice of pubs and restaurants. Turn the corner north and walk five blocks to The Sails.

Why you might be nearby?     A) You fell into the gravitational pull of the Marlborough vineyards, B) You were cold and Nelson is reported to have consistently pleasant weather.

Two of New Zealand’s top offerings are featured in Nelson; cycling and brew pubs. And they compliment each other.  Confer with the locals in choosing a ride, make sure it passes by, then ends with a proper pub.  Paved bike trails run along the ocean, up the rivers leading into Nelson and into the low mountains surrounding Nelson.

From The Sails it is a quick, uncluttered ride to join the cycle trails.    [mappress mapid=”5″]

Lesser Known Facts:     Max worked for IBM, based in Connecticut, USA for fourteen years.  Max got his start in hospitality developing pubs and restaurants; selling when the establishments achieved success.  He bought the site for The Sails and oversaw construction of the hotel.

Local Recommendation:     The Saturday morning market in downtown Nelson.

If you turn the wrong way where Bridge Street meets Trafalgar after leaving the bus station, you quickly arrive at The Vic, Mac’s Brewpub on Trafalgar Square in Nelson. Stop for a beer.

When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown.  For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded.  The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement.  Max was awarded a cap for his exceptional facility and guest service.

Something for Nothing      The Sails provides two bikes on site for use by their guests.  Not the same quality as the cycle rental options nearby, yet perfect for a 90 minute exploration of Nelson.  The Sails offers laundry service for guests for $8.00 a load; an appreciated touch for frugal packers.

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Martinborough, restaurant COOL CHANGE New Zealand

Martinborough, NZ: COOL CHANGE; a restaurant & bar in wine country

Cool Change; a restaurant & bar in Martinborough, New Zealand, 30 minutes south from Highway 2, New Zealand’s Wine Trail

What appeals:  On Tuesday, a lot of eating and drinking places in Martinborough close.  It was Tuesday and Cool Change would be open that night … and they had a bar.  Too few upscale NZ eating establishments have a bar; drinks are served at the table.

Jimmy, Cool Change’s afternoon barkeep, touted the special to be served later Tuesday evening; the platter of roast lamb served with Martinborough veggies and NZ potatoes. Two migrants from Minnesota sipped late afternoon beer at Cool Change’s bar.  He said they hadn’t been back since they left seven years ago.  She said they didn’t plan to ever go back.

Tirohana Estate; a boutique vineyard less than a kilometer from Memorial Square in Martinborough, offered white linen, their own wines,  veggies from their garden and the promise of top-notch service.  Tirohana Vineyard should have been an easy choice, but Cool Change was … more local.

Today's Special, Cool Change, Martinborough, NZ
Tuesday’s Doings

And Jimmy had already poured me a NZ pale ale.

How Far Down the Block?

If you’re driving Highway 2, the NZ Wine Trail, Martinborough is a 17 kilometer jog south – a pretty drive. Places never mentioned in travel books intrigue me.  Cool Change, located across the Kitchener Street from the well publicized Martinborough Hotel, was below guide book radar.

[mappress mapid=”4″]

 

Why you might be nearby?

You have been tasting at the vineyards surrounding Martinborough.  Quality vineyards stretch into town, their entrance a short walk from Memorial Square.

Lesser Known Facts

The name Cool Change was inspired by a change from city life and influenced by the Little River Band’s tune.

Local Recommendation

Returning at 9 pm, Cool Change was booming.  Platters of lamb came forth from the kitchen; every bar stool had been claimed.

Jimmy the barkeep morphed into the evening Maître D’, yet was easy to locate. His evening dress was the same as his 4 pm look; Venice Beach surfer dude circa 1968 featuring a loose white tee shirt, over-the-neck dirty blond hair and a three day growth. Diners in Cool Change’s dining room signaled for Jimmy’s attention.

My roast lamb platter had been reserved that afternoon.  Jimmy waved, confirming my lamb platter and pointing at an open table.

At 10:30 pm the dining room crowd had thinned, the bar in Cool Change still hummed.  A tri-athlete and a birthday guy sat side-by-side encouraging each other to drink beer.  Jimmy returned to the bar, he set a shot of Jameson Irish, neat, in front of me and said it was on the house.

Cool Change, TC cap
Service Award
Traverse City Cap

When traveling I take along baseball-style caps scripted with Traverse City, Michigan – my hometown.  For extraordinary service, a cap is awarded.  The cap does not replace tips or accolades, it is an added acknowledgement. Jimmy, the barkeep/Maître D was gracious during the brief award ceremony.  He set the cap atop several bottles behind his bar.

Something for Another Day

At 7 am, Wednesday morning not a car drove down Puruatanga Road as I jogged past Tirohana Estate.  How many diners did they serve last night?  Next trip, maybe.

I turned the corner and trotted into Martinborough, past Cool Change.

Cool Change, Martinborough, New Zealand (2)
Cool Change for the Lamb Platter
Categories
New Zealand Russell; old hotel, older drinking club

Russell, New Zealand; The Duke of Marlborough Hotel & Restaurant

The Duke of Marlborough; a hotel and restaurant in Russell, New Zealand                 

Throwback hotels with a bar full of stories grab me. The Duke’s history is the history of New Zealand; a well-kept wooden hotel, serving New Zealand food on their harbor-view porch. Located two steps from the base of Russell’s pier in the Bay of Islands, thirst is soon solved.

The Duke lies four hours north of Auckland by car; only a cyclone blocked the path. In the Atlantic basin, a tropical cyclone is known as a hurricane, after the ancient Central American deity of wind, Huracan. In the Northwest Pacific Ocean windstorms exceeding 74 MPH are called typhoons. In New Zealand cyclones are just cyclones.

Tropical Cyclone June arrived in Auckland the day after the 6.3 Wine Trail earthquake rattled me awake from an afternoon nap.

Waterspouts and low vertical wind shear are side effects of tropical cyclones; glad to be driving, not flying, to Russell.  Rain from the Cyclone June will be intense, but the 80 MPH winds should blow all rain right off the windshield.

How Far Down the Block?  The easy route north from Auckland international airport is Highway 1, with a final jog down Highway 11.  Two options will conclude the trip; either a car ferry from Opua with a final 8 mile drive into Russell, or continue north on Hwy 11 to Pahia, park the car and grab the people ferry for at 15 minute voyage to the pier in the center of Russell. The Duke of Marlborough lies at the base of the pier, along the Strand.[mappress mapid=”2″]

Russell is the quiet, proper, and affluent alternative to nearby summer holiday destinations.  In the 1830’s it was New Zealand’s epicenter for prostitution, whaling and the first Christian church.

Why you might be nearby? A) You’re meeting your sailboat for the late January Regatta in Bay of Islands; B) take an overnight break on your drive to 90 mile beach in the far north of New Zealand.

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The Pier
click me

If you’re staying at Eagles Nest where, rooms start at NZ$2,300/night and need a real people fix, The Duke is a five block walk down Tapeka Road. Don’t be conspicuous.

Lesser Known Facts:  The Duke was the first establishment licensed to sell alcohol beverages in New Zealand; however, not having a license did not deter competitors in 1840.  In 1840’s Russell was known as the Hell Hole of the Pacific. The Duke of Marlborough was called Johnny Johnston’s Grog Shop

Local Recommendation:  Reserve a table on the porch overlooking the Strand for dinner; consider the Fish & Chips – the Duke turns this peasant dish into fine dining.

Cocktail hour take a bottle of NZ wine, drive the eponymous road to Long Beach – less than a mile from your room at the Duke.  Be couth, bring a take-away cup and sip from a bench on the grass strand along the shore of Oneroa Bay.

Russell, 7 am
Russell at 7 am

Something for Nothing:  In the early morning hike (known as a tramp in New Zealand) to Tapeka Point overlooking the Bay of Islands.  You can shorten your tramp by driving to the end of Tapeka Road, park the car and tramp the final 800 meters to the point.